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Is this an antique or modern chaise ? If it is antique it will be doweled, usually with three or four 8-10mm dowels per foot. They are quite hard to get off if they are not already loose, you may be able to saw them off with one of these http://www.axminster.co.uk/stanley-stan ... rod906024/...

Richard, this blotchy surface is caused by grease and dirt penetrating a thin finish in places. It is very common with teak tables. I would try two ways of correcting it. Firstly use oxalic acid, rag on a warm solution with fine wire wool or a scouring pad, scrub it into the grain and leave...

It is always better to get the colour on first but that is not always possible especially with slightly opaque colours so you may need to add colour to your polish. If you do just add the colour a little at a time to avoid streaking.

I am surprised bleaching with A + B has not worked, it normally works very well on sycamore. you may want to check a few things and then give it another go. Firstly make sure the surface of the veneer is clean and grease free, you should then check that your B bleach is fresh, it tends to weaken...

could be wych elm !

I get butchers aprons from a butchers sundriesman, they are longer than any you get for woodworking, wider at the chest and much better quality cotton, you can get them with sewn in straps or with eyelets and removable straps. I usually get a good five years out of one...

That is a very nice piece of central American mahogany. Are you sure it came from a victorian piece? It looks georgian to me.

The only thing I can think of is stain the recess black and then use a black epoxy. It will have the effect of reflecting the edges and making them appear transparent. It might work better than being able to see the mahogany through the glass.

I would put your table around 10 - 15 years older than dangermouse. It can be dated by the general style and more specifically by the shape of the turned legs and the quality of the mahogany. It is a Brazilian mahogany base with what looks like a replacement pine top. ( all of the good Cuban and...

Hi Chris, you have a very nice arts and crafts fire surround there and apart from the colour I think it goes very well with the cupboards you have built. The fire surround looks as though it has not got much in the way of finish on it so if you wanted to lighten it to blend it in with the...

I love bacon burger baps;-) see you about 11sh.

As it is just a stones throw away, I can hardly miss the opportunity. Did somebody say BBQ? :occasion5: :occasion5:

You can use a hard wax filler before finishing but you will have the danger of the filler getting into the grain around the imperfection you are trying to fill. A sealer coat will help but you still need to be careful.

It might be worth your while talking to Alec Tiranti. He supplies artists with moulding sundries. I have found them to be very helpful in the past http://www.tiranti.co.uk/

That is a lot of expensive West System you will be using there but I can't see any problems with doing it. You might want to do it when the temperature is cooler say early morning to give you plenty of time to clean up before the resin starts to set. I was using some in the middle of the day...

All the Globe Wernickes I have worked on had a roller attached to the top of the door which ran on a track at the top of each cupboard in much the same way that modern cabinet drawers work. the more expensive ones have a canvas roller blind fixed at the back of the cupboard and attached to the...

I have not used Rustins grain filler but looking at their website it seems as though you can mix their 'ebony interior and exterior wood dye' with the filler to get the shade you want. This mix will stain your wood black so you can either put a coat of sealer on first or cut it right back after...

Hi Andrew, pine is harder to age than oak but it can still be done successfully and there are many ways of going about it. The method I use is to first give it a good bashing with some instruments of torture, see below. You will have to use your own judgement as to how far you go and it is...

Keep it in an airtight jar for when you next need it. I save all my old mutton cloth rags, some I use for staining and others for waxing, when I have a bucket full I soak them for a few hours in a hot soda crystal solution, then put them through the washing machine, they get better with age. I...

Or you could save yourself a lot of bother and order some of these:-) http://www.martin.co.uk/orderOnline_ProductList.aspx P.S. Is that a Bramah lock I spy on your box?