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I still think sanding is the best way forward, you could power sand the top but would have to hand sand the edges. Stripper does not work very well on oil finishes. The only other method would be to use some kind of solvent, but alcohol will not touch it. You could try cellulose thinners or...

Are you talking about stripping the base as well or just the top?

You will also need a good extractor with the sort of stuff you are cutting and make sure you get inside it and hoover out all those nooks and crannies to stop parts getting clogged up with heavy resin dust. http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-in ... -extractor

Thank you for that link Nev, I will check them out today.

Old t-shirts are ok but only if they are really old and well washed. When they get to the threadbare stage is when they are good for buffing.

I'm not sure there is any advantage to one or the other but more a question of compatibility. If you are to use a resin finish then shellac would be the one to use. If you used a cellulose lacquer on top of a shellac sealer it would almost certainly melt it. While you can certainly apply a resin...

There is nothing wrong with the waxes you are using, they are all good waxes especially the micrcrystalline ( chestnut's is pretty good too ). Using the right type of rag can make a lot of difference. When I did my apprenticeship and up to the early 90's the rags all polishers used was mutton...

Excellent idea:-)

looks like teak to me too.

As Terry said you cannot put anything on top of wax but wax. If the piece has been waxed onto unsealed timber and has now gone dull it will have hardend off so will take more wax on top very well. If it has been waxed with a coloured wax like Fiddes supreme you might want to be a little careful...

Thank you for your replies, I don't actually use the flour emery as an abrasive but as a dust for putting into corners ect when restoring antiques especially tribal artifacts, It has been a perfect match for the dry desert dust found on these items. The standard 'dust' used by restorers and...

Hi Marcos, can I ask what sort of furniture you are producing, what finish you have applied what wax are you using and what are you using to buff the wax? I ask because in 33 years of polishing I have rarely needed to resort to a buffer. I have tried them but find they never give a satisfactory...

I would strip the old finish off to be on the safe side. I think you could sand it off very quickly.

FYI. De-waxed shellac is sold here as white shellac. It is the only truly transparent shellac. It is used to polish over inlays, especially metal inlays as it does not alter the colour but because it is de-waxed is very brittle and scratches easily. As Terry said, sanding sealer will do the same...

G Plan furniture can be either oiled or have a cellulose finish. You will need to determine which it has before re applying any finish to it. Generally just cleaning and re oiling will not match the colours. It is possible to match the colours in with a stain before oiling but if you are not...

I have been using a pot of flour emery that I inherited with a box of polishers stuff some ten years ago. I want to buy some more but can't find anything on the net. Has anybody got any suggestions for me?

I have not used Chestnut stains but if you allow it to dry completely ( several hours ) I can't see that you would have problems, if it does have cellulose thinners in it, the cellulose will evaporate. The only stains I can think of that would give problems would be an oil or naphtha stain.

Try these people, they have everything from real gold to a variety of sign writers supplies. http://www.stonehouses.co.uk/index.php

I would like to see some photos please.

Hi Jim. These country chairs come apart quite easily, just give it a good thump with a heavy rubber mallet. The split in the seat appears to be on a joint so no need to put it through the bandsaw. Just take it apart , clean the old glue off and reglue.