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From the photos it looks like you have a full finish in which case you could use T-cut but if there is any open grain the T-cut will fill it and you will be left with white flecks in the grain which will be a real bugger to remove. If you do have any areas of open grain then you could use a...

I have the Metabo SXE450 which is very good. It replaced a Festool 150 sander which I don't think is worth the money but is also bulky and heavy. https://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/metabo-sxe-450-turbo-tec-random-orbit-disc-sander-150mm

Pughs in Ledbury are having their timber and tool sale on the 2nd January at their new showroom opposite the Rugby club. Always plenty of good green and seasoned timber and lots of shiny and not so shiny tools and machinery to be had.

Until two years ago I used to buy half crowns, Thruppenny bits, Pennies and h`'penny coins as umpire counters. They were always going walkabout so I bought them whenever I saw them to replenish supplies. There are plenty to be had, Antique centres are the best place to look, you will usually...

You may have to wet then sand several times before the grain stops coming up. If you are going to use a water stain add a drop of fairy liquid to the stain, this will break down the surface tension and allow the stain to sink right down into the grain.

Hi Lijongtao. The wood will need priming before you start the French polishing. You can put neat shellac on as a primer or you can dilute it with meths, the ratio is not really important but as a rough guide 70% shellac to 30% meths, mix then wet a rag or sponge and work into the grain with a...

I think you will find with this machine it is the quality of the accessories that will let it down. They will be cheap and poorly made which is reflected in the reviews on the Axminster site. The motor is craft rated which will mean you cannot use it for extended amounts of time unlike the...

It looks great well done and a nice bit of German! walnut.

Sawdust (any kind so long as it is light in colour) mixed to a stiff paste with PVA glue, push it in well with a filling knife and sand off the excess when it is dry.

This is what it should look like. If yours is missing you may be able to get one from Hong Kong which is where a lot of these coffers were made. I used to watch them being made in the workshops when I was a boy in Kowloon in the sixties!!!

I would cut it back with 240g then a finish of your choice. A sanding sealer, cut back again then a few rubbers of button or garnet polish followed by a wax. A dark brown or black wax scrubbed into the carving with a cut down 1" paint brush will bring it up nicely. Do you have the escutcheon...

Hi Harry. ProfChris has given you good advise but I personally would go a bit courser on the abrasive to 240 grit to remove the light stains on the top and I would use Danish oil to finish. With forty years of oiling my cricket bat with boiled linseed oil I would say the smell does linger...

Yes it will be fine. Remove the wax with white spirit and cut back the sanding sealer with 240g you can then use the wax oil over that. You can also wax over the wax oil once it has cured.

"a toothbrush for corners and crevices" This is a good suggestion from Richard but don't use your own toothbrush, your wife's will do just fine:-)

I think you need to strip the whole finish, give it a light sand and refinish. I can't really tell what timber it is, it looks have a good natural colour therefor no need to stain. I would say the original finish was nitro-cellulose and you can use a spray lacquer in a can to get it back to its...

Hi Jim. Wax is not a suitable finish for a table, as you are experienced with varnish I would use that. You will need to scrub off the wax already applied with white spirit and wire wool then two or three coats of varnish.

Excellent job. The chair looks great, stripping was definitely the way to go.

That is a nice little writing slope/lap desk. Judging by the inlay I would say it was probably made around 1880-1920 and at the lower end of quality for this kind of piece (sorry, don't mean to offend) You are right about there being another piece of wood covering the well. the paper hinges were...

Your breakfast bar is made from pine of some sort. It was originally one piece that has been cut in half and opened up then joined. If you look at the semi circular marks on either side you will see they match and if you look at the smaller saw marks in the middle where the join is you will see...

There are products you can get to tint the PV67 but I would not go down that route, you are better off staining first. These Liberon pallet wood dyes are very good and easy to apply with a sponge they are a water based dye so should not be affected by the PV67...