Search results

I have had this one for about four years and it is excellent. Draper Pistol Grip Air Tyre Inflator 0-170 psi

Thank you for that info. I had guessed it was to go on the outside escutcheon but as there was not a mention of it anywhere I wanted to make sure. The lock is now fitted and working beautifully, it is so nice to get rid of those very uncomfortable 3" keys from the old locks.

I am fitting new locks to my doors and I have gone for euro cylinders with bolt through escutcheons. The escutcheons come with one thin steel plate but with no instructions and I can find nothing on line as to where this plate goes, front or back. Do any of you good people know?

This couple below produce food videos on YouTube, which are very well made. They also have a blog where they talk about how they make them and how much money they make from them(very un English!!!). Also about the equipment the have. It's worth a look if you are serious about making You Tube...

Grantx, no this would not be a good finish you will be putting a hard finish over a soft flexible finish. Just stick to one product for the best finish, oil, wax oil, shellac or lacquer.

I use the Konig hard wax fillers, they do not need spraying over with lacquer. I think Konig state that because these fillers are designed for repairing lacquered furniture. If you use the Konig fillers for your cherry top make sure you give it a good sanding afterwards otherwise you will have a...

As Jacob said, it is possible, shellac will stick to cellulose but it will not last, putting a soft finish on top of a hard finish will look okay for a while but will scratch really easily as when the shellac has cured and hardened the slightest impact will cause it to shatter. If the cellulose...

You can do it but it will not last long before it starts to delaminate. Did you have anything in mind?

I would say Ash too but not totally convinced. Ash was not used much in furniture making except up in Scotland where they used it for drawer linings.

Overnight is plenty of time. You should be able to tell from touching the surface whether it is dry/hard enough to go ahead with the shellac.

Never apologies for a wood ID post.........we all love them:)

I think you have been beaten to it Phil!!

I have a few flush cut saws, a Japanese one which is very good, an Irwin one with different sized teeth on each side, is knackered now but had served me well for at least ten years, an expensive veritas one which is crap and has lived in a drawer after a couple of uses. The best one by far is...

"Ah thank you. Veneer though." You say that as though it is a bad thing!

I use a heat gun most days and have been through many over the years. My current one is a DeWalt, ive had it for three years so far and it is great, it is very comfortable in the hand, has a handy stand that pulls out from the handle and the controls are in an intuitive position.

It is all walnut.

Looks great, well done. I like the coromandel veneer on the base.

The T cut/Vitashine will not get the lines out, you have to straighten these out as you are polishing before the polish hardens. Also you need to stop using the oil for the last several rubbers otherwise you will get a reaction with the wax.

What method of applying the shellac are you using? Are you using oil to lubricate?

The open grain looks very open unless the photo is exaggerating the grain! It might be that whatever caused the stain was sat there for a long time which can have this effect. The only solution is to cut the finish right back to the wood with 240g then there are a few options to fill the grain...