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Many thanks! I hope you keep well! Thanks for the advice, I had thought about this but the adjuster registers in two slots at once so the distance between slots is fairly critical. Thankyou! The slots are 1.5mm wide, with a depth of 1.5mm, 17mm long, and a 1mm gap between each slot. The only...

Here's a photo of what the slots look like:

Mods - I believe this type of thread is ok as I'm looking for a favour, not a professional contract, but please let me know if it's not appropriate. Hi there! I want to make a blade for a block plane that I own from o1 steel to go along with the iron it currently has. I bought some o1 GFS in...

Certainly yes. It's one of my go to finishes for things that are going to be handled or have things placed on it. For example a serving tray I made a while back. It keeps a very natural feel and scratches don't show very easily. It's worth checking out some video tutorials on how to apply it as...

I've just noticed this thread is three years old and recently resurrected. Oh well.

My workshop is a not very well sealed conservatory by the sea so temperature swings, moisture, salt, you name it, I have it causing rust on my tools. I even seem to have skin that can rust tools quickly too! Renwax is definitely economical and I like using it on restorations to bring back...

I don't know if residue from white spirit would cause milky shellac, however I was always taught to use the same solvent in the finish to clean. So clean with alcohol for shellac, white spirit for poly etc. Doug is probably spot on with moisture though. Shellac hates moisture!

Another vote for Japanese dovetail saw. Gyokucho are great. Either the 311, 372 for fine cuts or the 303 if you want a bit more "grr".

How far out is the plane sole? Granted I have found rider planes to need some flattening but unless it's really far out then it could actually just be technique that is the issue. Jointing with a and plane will generally result in a belly so you have to take extra passes just in the middle to...

Cutting dovetails and cut out the tails instead of the waste.

This sounds a bit like the technique David Barron showed on his YouTube channel. He cut the shoulders in one go from the edge of the board to the tail. He recommended to put a small square on the edge of the board until you learn to "see" 90 degrees with your chisel. I have had good results...

I design in both metric and imperial (even on the same project) because I find they are useful for different things. My tools are all a mixture, and if I am making a joint where I need a specific metric or imperial size, I just pick whichever one fits with the tool I have.

If I'm buying a tool new I don't care if it's sharpened or not, I'm most likely going to resharpen it straight away anyhow. I know how I like my tools to work. However, if I'm buying a premium tool I do expect it to be in a fully prepared, sharpenable state; a flat back, and a standard primary...

I don't like using any kind of lubricant while sharpening. It seems counter intuitive to me to lubricate when I'm trying to abrade something, unless its final polishing. I see a sharpening fluid purely as a way to carry swarf away to promote a clean stone and keep the abrasive clear for...

Yeah looks like it, I found this side view of what looks like the same thing on google images.

This is a very interesting examination. Could this profile necessitate more frequent grinding of the primary bevel to keep the secondary small enough not to interfere? I finish my chisels (and plane irons for that matter) on a 1mm goat leather strop loaded with an incredibly fine buffing...

After trying quite a few different methods of rust removal, electrolysis is my absolute favourite!

I haven used my tormek clone since I made a jig for my high speed grinder, and I haven't used scary sharp since I got my ceramic waterstone.

Shellac! Used as a coating on medication, sweets, used in dentistry. As well as making a lovely wood finish.

Personally, I can't stand lapping planes on a flat surface, no matter what you do you're inevitably going to get a slightly convex surface from either rocking the plane itself as you move it, or uneven wear of abrasive. Plus you need so much abrasive! I do what you do, turn it upside down and...