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I've found standard gorilla glue to be excellent with wood, ceramic and aluminium.

What's your plane blade made out of then? 🤔

If you can get an even cut using the lateral adjuster then it's square enough. Edit: just a thought, it's worth checking if the sides are straight and parallel to each other, it might be why you're struggling to get it square/read it square.

You've got two options for heavily handled object IMO. Either encase it in a thick hard varnish if you don't mind the plastic look/feel. Or go for an oil like danish oil. It will look and feel more like wood, and any scratches and scuffs it picks up will blend into the wood better. Very easy to...

Evaporust is great stuff. Chuck it in then rinse off the next day. Can be used again and again, and unlike most other methods it won't affect the base metal. Electrolysis is good, but I find it takes metal out of the pits so can leave a rough surface.

There's a couple of reasons why flattening on wet and dry can be troublesome. As said previously it only takes a small amount of curling to make things out of flat, especially as sandpaper is compressible. Another factor that contributes is that silicon carbide breaks down quickly, you tend to...

Hi, I was wondering if anyone has any tips for reducing tearout while using a router plane, particularly in soft woods? I've read that the spear point blades can help but I only have straight blades. Thanks!

Larger amp hour batteries absolutely provide more power to the tools. Yes, in an ideal world two 18v batteries would both deliver 18 volts regardless of capacity, but voltage drops as batteries discharge, meaning a larger battery keeps a higher voltage for longer. That and the current draw...

Hand planing a nice sharp 90 degree corner when dimensioning wood, then slicing my hand when I pick the piece up.

Seems like an attempt at a combination rip/cross pattern but with large gullets to deal with sawdust.

I use evaporust, it's good stuff. I've done electrolysis with some parts too. It takes time to set up and needs ventilation due to fumes (hydrogen I think) but it works very quickly! No matter what method, remove lose rust with a wire brush/steel wool first. It makes the process more effective...

I'm curious how much better they are than regular dowels with glue. Every review I've found has been shining though.

IIRC the evolution saws are often for cutting lots of different materials and so runs at a slower speed then most woodworking mitre saws. I don't know how much difference it makes but something to keep in mind.

Those look like Chinese style planes with western blades in them. Edit: THE HNT GORDON SMOOTHER and TRYING PLANE

Woah, zombie thread from 13 years ago :LOL:

So long as it's silicone free and you don't put a ton of wax on it should be fine. Spread a thin layer, wait 10-15 minutes to haze over then buff off all the excess with a clean cloth until it shines.

At least I realised before cutting the pins 😂

Not the end of the world but I once cut the tails out of the end of a board instead of the waste between the tails 😂 did three dovetails like that before realising.

Apologies to ask such a basic question but are you using a decent bit? I've found most slotted bits are awful, they aren't ground with parallel sides but are tapered so they mush the heads up. Using one that's too thin will damage the heads too, needs to be a snug fit.

+1 window breaker, you see them on buses and trains.