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Ive just watched a Made in Britain Programme featuring how they make Clifton Planes - if you get a chance well worth watching. ITV 4 (?) should be able to find it on ITV Hub.

Whatever sharpening method is used I would strongly recommend honing (stropping) the sharp edge (pulling towards you only) using green polishing compound similar to that sold by Axminster at only £3.88 a stick. My honing block is about 10"x3" -- a strip of leather offcut ex (nearby shop) spray...

I'm not intending to start a debate war but (and this is from a position of ignorance) does a hairline crack in a frog or side or base of a plane really matter?

If its a very respectable price go for it and enjoy ------------- if by any chance its not to your liking just sell it probably wont lose much and you will have a better idea of what you want for the next one

I placed an advert/posting whatever in Freecycle asking for an old metal vice working or not rusty or not hoping someone had an unwanted vice screwed to granddads old workbench that was getting in the way. Was I lucky -- yes - a bit of gentle cleaning/de-rusting and all was good -might be worth...

Try outpostworkshop.co.uk made in Liverpool

Thank you all very much

Hi Is that a crack up one side or just a scratch?

Hi Vann two piece same as yours? I guess mine must be about 1970's then, Cadmium plated steel wonder why they did that, its a bit shiny but does the job ! Thanks Ian some useful sites there

Its a shame that there is little accessible info for Stanley made in England. I'm trying to find out when Stanley (Made in England) planes e.g No 41/2 used castings and parts made by Qualcast. I have one of these with the handle and tote nuts made of Aluminium (?) not brass and the depth...

Hi Bod Just seen your remarks I have a Stanley 41/2 made in England with the Q marks, the depth adjuster is bright metal/steel/plated? (not brass) and the nuts that hold the tote and handle (both seem beech) in place are also not brass possibly aluminium. Its a pretty heavy casting good to use...

I think Ive still got a Triumph Tiger Cub cam extractor tool

Back to the original post Older (narrower 2 1/4") or newer 2 3/8"? If you needed a narrower blade/iron and could only find a wider one would a careful bit of bench grinding (on each side edge) followed by a judicious amount of filing make a narrower version or is the steel to hard to shape...

Ive also wondered why the mantra says never buy a plane with serious pitting, I have a couple that were basket cases or considered scrap but after a clean up work perfectly well, well good enough for an amateur wood smoother :)

Ive used ebay for selling a variety of things including a Apple computer to someone at the other end of the country. It was sold as not working the listing said it wasn't working several times. The purchaser said it arrived in perfect condition but didn't work!! He then proceeded to dismantle it...

Getting plywood behind where the bracket will be fixed seems best so that the load being pulled by hand pressure in any direction on the handrail will be spread. Perhaps make a rectangular hole big enough to get your hand in to say the right of the fixing point - eight or more inches away will...

OK thanks for your interest cheers

Thanks folks Due only to cost (of course!) I will miss the entire re Chroming thing and instead go the chrome polish/wire wool then try a Garryflex block (Ive used them on other things quite successfully and then buff it up a little. Should then be gently improved and not become a highlight item...

Thanks Raffo Very interesting site, my goodness the amount of work some people devote to renovating a plane is beyond belief - but its a hobby and the end results are just what that hobbyist is after. For my part I prefer to see an old plane looking like an old plane, useable and lightly...

I did hear that oven cleaner does but never tried