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Go for Bingy man no 1 answer if you can afford it that's the real deal.. Unfortunately everything else might look OK but depends what finish you can live with.

Of the 2 listed +1 vote for Record Herald - a friend has one and swears by it (not at it)

However you build the concrete related base I would put some damp proof membrane between this and the wood to reduce the chance of moisture migrating into the wood.

Ah 2CV Happy days

This is a two stroke engine for my money use any petrol you like or can get. Aspen fuel would be better. If you are using it on a irregular basis and not using Aspen turn it upside down and drain any fuel out into a container for reuse next time

I suspect the slot at the back is where a piece of plywood/hardboard is inserted to form the back to the unit.

Wood it be possible to wire wool the rust off and then burnish to get a good finish while keeping original Re the lock a new one will not fit properly. Can you do the same as above most lock Places will cut a key if that's an issue

Could you buy another body and cut off the side you need and then have it welded on. Or if you bought a whole plane the unused parts Could be sold to get most of your money back

Did they help?

Do nothing - just look at it for a year or two and see if anything really really needs doing Also don't polish any brass gently wash if you must ----- don't forget its taken 250 years for the clock to acquire this patina which can be thrown away in a few careless moments

Some years ago I bought a used large Scheppach dust/chip collector from a retired fireman, came with a few metres of plastic/wire wound/encapsulated pipe. Everything had earthing cables connected and linked so there was no way he would get a static caused fire/explosion.

Slightly off topic but years ago - about 1975 I had finished some extra qualifications at night school/tech college and I needed something to fill a couple of nights a week over a winter period. Signed up for a welding course which was entirely gas welding. All sorts of folk turned up from...

Just thinking to myself so you have the same problem as before you changed the brushes? Try the easy fix idea from Tom. Maybe Ive missed something but which bench saw do you have and are you able to run a lead direct from the motor to a normal plug/wall socket and use the switch on the wall to...

How was it before you changed the brushes? what prompted you to change them in the first place? Is there a thermal cut off near the motor that triggers it to stop after a period of use and after cooling off allows you to start again? Might you have disconnected this during the brush swap?

This may be/sound daft but if the broken part and the round part don't have any rotational force on them - I assume not as its just a self lubricated bush - then why not join them together with araldite or better still JB Weld? Well worth trying let me know what do you think?

I agree with deema sounds like a red knock off switch with key to reset. Can you post a photo of the switch please

There is a complete jig saw on ebay £15 buy it now price. Just saying

Other than a lesson or 2 at school many years ago I have never used a metalwork lathe so please excuse the following questions, yes out of ignorance but a desire to learn as well. I understand the mega accuracy and so the extension will fit without causing a wobble on the shaft extension but...

Hi Might be worth asking Fiora Machinery they seem to have some knowledge of Woodfast TH410 Thicknesser - Fiora Machinery they appear to be in Australia or Axminster Tools.com in the UK Hope this helps

Thanks Scholar think the infill will stay as is good tip about the Osmo oil, I spoke the their tech info dept yesterday and that seems to be the product it will keep the wood "clean" rather than a wax which would(?) pick up dirt from day to day use.