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I like that!

What is your intention for after you’ve seasoned them?

Are you just cutting it neater to then seal and season for later? Does it really need that neat of a cut in that case?

Loppers for 40cm diameter?? You’ve got bigger muscles th an me!

I really like this idea! Safety Lock Down Clamp for Drill Press – Locks Down Anywhere in 1 sec | Pask Makes I have a cross vice bolted to the table of my pillar drill as it's good for the majority of my drilling. If I need to drill something else that it doesn't suit, I can put a block of wood...

I am confused but more confused at the bad tempered drivers you’re referring to. I’ve not seen any evidence of it. You also mentioned rage a few posts back. I’ve not seen any of that either.

I think it’s a rewind.

They will to an extent. I’m referring to the areas where it’s almost like someone doodles on it with a brush and the like.

The kuksas look good. The grain on your second highlights why I think apple. I find it has ‘normal’ grain then it has a an almost random grain colour over the top

I agree with this. The pattern of grain matches my experience.

I actually just bought a battery one myself last week. https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-tti821ggt-18v-1-x-2-0ah-li-ion-txp-cordless-grass-trimmer/380pt I had been reluctant to go this route but petrol was a no for me and so much to deal with at the allotment that something had to be bought...

Ooh yeah, good point on the bike bell. Maybe a little, “Yoo hoo” for the pardon me and a big “HONK” for other times.

What’s an unaggressive toot? I bet 99% of people would take a honk of the horn as aggressive! I think cars should have two horns - the aggressive horn and the gentle nod of the head horn.

Just buy one of these, put it in a drill and spin it against a file until it’s the diameter you want. https://www.powertoolspares.com/accessory/73190031-rear-thrust-bearing

So the simplest solution is just to turn down what you have, as suggested before.

What’s the diameter of the current bearing?

I checked with some I have here and there was no difference on the finished hole if it was piloted first or not. Definitely no need to go up to 5mm hole size. I think it just depends on how the driving in goes as to if you need to predrill. If the rafter is quite thick it’ll be a fair bit of...

Yep, but if you use a pilot hole with one of these it’ll turn into a clearance hole for the shank anyway.

I’ve thought about it more and if the rafters are quite deep it’ll limit that initial friction to drive them through. It certainly won’t hurt to pilot hole.

Do they even need a pilot hole? They’re self cutting. Is the pilot to stop future splits?