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Hello, So what else would a plane that is used for planing wood for block printing be called. Block plane has a ring to it, don't you think? Aww, can't call it that in case I get confused when I straighten out me knitting! Hence 'the plane with no name' Mike.

Hello, That Stanley plane and the other familiar ones we know, are a very modern evolution of a small plane. Wood block printing is ancient and predates metal planes by a great margin. It is certain that wood blocks for printing: a) were required to be flat initially for their first use. b)...

Hello, The butcher's block thing has always been dubious, but not as far from the truth as you might think. Yes, using a tiny plane to true up such a big endgrain surface is daft and I never believed it myself, but butcher's blocks are not the only end grain wood product that needs trueing up...

Hello, You are going to have to find someone who can slot the spines, or else retire from saw making forever. There is no way these can be the last (and first) three saws like this ever. Once you have the perfect looking saw, more are going to be requested, I have no doubt. It is stunning. Mike.

Hello, The setup in the photo is not much good for internal shapes, though. Mike.

Hello, And that is all anyone ever does, there is no craziness in it. The OP was not doubt making his stone 'less doughnut shaped or whatever'. It may have been ill advised to try and un-doughnut shape that particular stone, but that is besides the point, Only you talk about modern crazy...

Hello, OK so now I have pinned you down to a definitive stance. The stones need to be flattish and maintained that way by distributing wear. Well no one said anything about engineering flat did we; when we say flat we mean flat relative to what we need to do. So when a stone goes out of...

Hello, So you are being duplicitous here. Are you quoting holtzhapffel just to win and argument and don't actually believe the flatness of a stone should be maintained in use; evidenced by your dished and grooved stones? Or are you saying they should be kept flat in use but you fail at evenly...

Hello, No one is denying that evenly distributing wear is a good thing. Guess what, we all do it! But trying to keep the stone as flat as possible in use INFORMS that the stone should be flat, by inference. So what if, in several years of use, besides wide plane irons, we have sharpened firmer...

Hello, Another one for peltor III. Just the right amount of attenuation for my machines in the shed. Mike.

Hello, And this would be a shame. It might have had some practical use for someone, somewhere, rather than just the unfounded speculation from others. I'm sorry, Stewie. Mike.

Hello, If Steve Voigt has truly gone for good, then some here ought to be ashamed of themselves, and perhaps the moderators should do something. Some of the remarks made were a bit too personal and name calling, and were not about logically putting a differing point of view across. I think...

Hello, 2 things are obvious from the photos, although tension and tracking cannot be ascertained from a photo, so it could be a combo of things. But 1. the side guides are not forward enough, they should be just behind the tooth gullet and 2. That is a small tooth count blade for thin stock...

Hello, But a simple string line to separate the two pieces, and all would be fine. It is also about designing with the wood not just letting it dictate. Mike.

Hello, That wardrobe door is not made from Conti/furniture board, that is for sure, so you'll need a rethink on what can be achieved. That is MDF spray finished. You might try using a combo of Conti, let's call that melamine faced chipboard MFC and MDF, as MDF comes in more varied...

Hello, Sensible fellow, I like this chap from his first post, I hope it continues! Mike.

Hello, This is true, but then you compromise durability. Unless you build up the finish with the prescribed number of coats, then all bets are off concerning the water resistance, scratch resistance etc. so you may as well use oil and have an easily repairable coating. There is always a...

Hello, Just a word about blade sutability for the riving knife fitted. It should not be taken as a given that a new blade will be suitable. The riving knife must be a smidgen thinner than the kerf, but a smidgen thicker thane the saw plate. If your saw was fitted as standard with a 3.2 mm kerf...

Hello, Advocating the continuance of the disposable society, given the state of the planet, seems a bit odd, to say the least. Perhaps we should darn our socks, too. In fact if socks weren't made in the Far East by slave labour and seen as disposable, we would all be darning our socks, patching...

Hello, You must leave a riving knife on the saw, no matter what you are cutting. Removing it completely is a big no no. If you cut the existing riving knife to just below the level of the saw blade tip, then you can perform partial thickness cuts, but have no guard mounting point. If you file...