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Personally I'd use a wood hardener type product. Simple to use, won't flake and will help deal with the water soaking into the end grain. For 'true' resin with hardeners think of this like the deck of the boat and you'd need a clear coating type resin. There are now so many it would best to...

Resin and lots of it and whyyyyyyyyyy?

Instead of trying to remove the insulation from the overhang, use a metal cutting blade in a circular saw to cut a line across the underneath of the sheet, just through the flat backing sheet, where it sits over the wall and some mastic to help seal the sheet for any uneveness to the wall...

edit for dates

you can reminisce, here https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/1107531/table_411_413.xlsx goes back to start of '89. Cost was 10 or 11p a litre. also includes diesel and petrol data.

Unless you have some special skills you're not telling us about, and are planning on building some kind of weird torture-looking-device, so you can simultaneously turn with both hands and both feet, thereby proving beyond doubt that a man can indeed multitask, you know really that you shouldn't...

I remember some muppet buying a pallet load of veg oil about 10 - 12 years ago from a supermarket. Photo was front page news, I think in the mirror. He said it was for his car. Price of veg oil increased rapidly, and quickly after that to discourage others, like the day after. On the mpg point...

Appreciate you say you're not in a position to purchase materials but IF you do have some ply/mdf you could wedge the door so the gaps are closed and screw the ply to the door, 6 or 9mm would be fine. The door could in situ and it would help deal with gaps in the panels. Not pretty, but quick...

Have a look at the 'specials' section on the Scawton timber site. It's 21 or 22mm par, if you want to finish at 38mm cut some strips and laminate them to the top and bottom of the rails. You can then concentrate on construction rather than preparation and save a lot of time and cash. 38mm for...

Carpenter bees

Perhaps netting with either a metal or wood frame made so it adjusts as the trees move. See the 'Huck' website.

I can take a look if you like, might just need a second pair of eyes to spot the obvious. Not claiming to be an expert but spent tooo many hours rebuilding mine from a box of bits with a missing top wheel assembly. Would have to be into next week, probably late afternoon when I'm passing. PM me...

Remove any glue from the socket and lightly sand. Lightly sand evenly all round the top of the leg, Reassemble, ensure leg is driven home. Use a chisel same size (near as possible) to width of leg in socket, tap a line into top of leg. Cut a wedge about 8" long tapering from around 6mm, square...

Thanks for all the replies, very much appreciated. I've kicked the window board idea into touch. Just way too much potential for it to go wrong, not least because that framework is still liable to move. The consequences of that have been pointed out above. If this was a solid wall then there'd...

Looking for some thoughts/advice on this. As part of some other work I've been asked to 'hide' the wood movement in an Oak frame extension. A picture tells thousand words. In brief they want to cover the gaps that have appeared due to oak moving through drying out. Apparently the company...

There are 8, 3mm hex screws going through the two black strips either side of the plate, they hold the 'bed' down. Try tightening them and see how it performs.

It is when it is the advert. I agree CE2+ is expected to be rough, but a national co advertising it as '7ply B/CC grade', is wrong and it's about the only way the op will have of getting his money back or exchanged.

Argue on the 'B/CC grade' i.e on clear(ish) face point. It's clearly not that from what you say. Wickes are generally pretty good, but as with owt now you'll probably have to make some noise.

For a budget glue Everbuild 501. A few years ago I laminated several pieces of pine cladding together as I needed some thicker pieces and had a lot of cladding and little 3x3. They where left outside for two winters. Then had another use for them so they came inside and dried out with no issues...

These are useful for 100mm flexible pipe, not quick-connect but only takes seconds to swap. https://www.screwfix.com/p/t-mex-stainless-steel-worm-drive-hose-clips-70-120mm-10-pack/28347