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I think old grinding wheels would be ideal for use in hand cranked grinders.

I suppose all of us have different ideas of what a bargain is!! The first no 4 I bought was a late 70s Record from Ebay for £15 inc postage. The last was a Stanley with wooden handles but with rust on the sole, from a boot sale for £1. But a Sorby no4 is going to be a lot less common.

Is it possible to roughly date a tool with a maker's or owner's name stamp that has a zigzag or serrated border? Eg, I have a small gouge that has "cast steel" with the zigzag border but no other markings, a gouge with "Moulson Brothers" in a zigzag box. I'm only looking for a general period...

Re pressing down, I would have thought you do need to press down to some extent regardless of what the plane is. But how much is too much and tiring? If you have press really hard to get a very thin shaving, that sounds like the sole is concave.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMwCdqwWvIo How It's Made, clogs, about 1 min in they show a duplicating lathe, although I would think that's a major bit of kit for high volume production.

It does read like Bill Carter uses a 90 degree cutting edge without a burr.

I suppose the ideal thing is to mount the wheel on a frame or modify the trough so that there is space under the stone to put a tray of water which you simple remove after each use, like the removable water tray on a Tormek.

Thanks, so it's a flat gouge?! It's completely flat as far as I can see, I suppose the rounding means it can reach into a smaller space than without it..

Hello all, Is it OK to use a natural grinding stone dry without water, would the stone wear excessively? I won't be overheating the blade if used dry. It's hand cranked, 340mm diameter with metal trough/container. there 's a drain hole at the side next to the bottom, not on the bottom itself...

Hello all, I've got a chisel where the long edges on the front/top (ie on bevel edge chisels it's the edges which are bevelled) are rounded off. What's the reason for the round edges? Chisel is a "JB Addis & Son, Sheffield" 4.5mm, has a number "3".

I just sharpen on an ordinary bench stone, I'm not an expert on woodworking, sharpening or anything and I can get knives sharp. You just hold the blade at the appropriate angle and rub it on the stone surface. If the blade is bigger than the stone, you just move it across as it goes along, if...

I think instead of randomly bashing the wire, as in the video, you could put the chisel on the wire and hit it with a mallet and so on, which will give whatever TPI you need. Of course which is what people have done.

In your opinion. The rules are quite simple: must have price private only no Ebay links. As for the OP, no one is going to miss your future non-existent posts!

Closed mouth is better on a narrow workpiece, open mouth is better for seeing where it cuts.

Hand made fret saw blade: get a bit of wire, hit it with something hard and sharp (chisel, plane iron etc) along its length! Now why didn't I think of that! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwKq4w8wpJk

I use ordinary chisels and the plane iron, but you could use files, sandpaper etc, as already mentioned. Another idea I've read is to use a chisel with the cutting end ground off square although I'm not sure what difference it makes compared to a normal chisel. I haven't used a float yet but...

That's a great tip, ta!

I would think sharpening a knife is no different in principle to any other type of blade, ie you have to abrade the cutting edge to form a burr/wire edge. Knives tend to be made of stainless which I gather is harder than carbon steel so maybe it just takes longer using more strokes on the stone.

Well spotted! The piece was already a wedge shape and the grain direction is all "wrong" for a plane, but as it's only a tiny bit of scrap, I didn't even bother to use a ruler or try square to draw the lines.

It's convex along and across the sole and does take tiny narrow shavings.