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Sorry, Pete, I meant machines like table saws or P/Ts asking for 1000m3h while only providing 100mm ports, not DCs that claim they can do it. Seems daft to spec a minimum airflow that can't possibly be achieved. I mention it as I just watched a new video from Keith Brown talking about his new...

Oh I have no idea at all, but 680m3 a minute is 60 times what pearlykings extractor claims to be able to do. I think most machines only seem to spec a minimum of around 1000m3/h while also only having 100mm ports. On a quick Google hunt it seems 400cfm is 680m3h

@Inspector 680m3 a minute seems a lot, no?

I'm guessing they are all much of a muchness since they are all basically the same idea. They are also so very expensive for what they are, I think. Peter also did a video just a few days ago about making your own to see if it's something to really need.

Just as well as they are like rocking horse teeth at the moment, 240v at least.

I'm guessing Mike said no plastic because he doesn't like plastic? With regard to roof covering, I was very happy with my fibre cement slates. Lot of work putting them up with all the nails and rivets though, but a long lasting nice looking roof for not actually a terrifying sum.

Especially when one picks this projects to line up with tool desires!

They might have, but the extensions on thus house were fine 35 years ago and are still not on the os maps! In the end 2m from the boundary worked great for me so mine is (I think!) wholly compliant anyway.

@AJB Temple the cladding tool was invaluable for me. I'm sure others have done good work without one using methods you describe. I bought it used for £100 and will probably get near the same for it when sold so that's good enough for me. I'd have sprayed the boards but coverage is less and...

The small ones are cheap enough and work well enough I think that to attempt to make one yourself is going to be an exercise in frustration when compared to the cost of just buying one. A 100mm one on the other hand and it might be more beneficial. What we all need is to get lucky like sunnybob

Any particular suggestions on locks for the doors? A couple of long throw (do they exist) mortise locks between the doors and a bolt top and bottom of the secondary door? I'll bend the hinges as Mike suggests which will offer a little more security and I know that if someone wants to get in...

Since the domino df500 seems to like rocking horse teeth new at the moment in many places its also propping up used prices.

Nuh uhh, its a gift! Ha.

Plasterboard or osb will be fine. Not sure if you need to do anything regarding vapour barriers or anything. Mike will know.

An amazing story. I'm able bodied and still take ages and I'm still not sure I'm any good. I'll make Mike a little sign for helpingmy workshop build that says "I heart my jointer" and inform him he HAS to secure it to his door header.

Yeah if it's one you know will get use of like a template bit you don't mind it.

For what it's worth, I needed a cove bit for my workshop cladding and it was going to be £15 or something for a branded one. For £60 I got the trend set with 30 odd bits including the one you're after for this I think. I only had a couple of bits so it made sense to me. Many might never get...

Trend one on amazon. Iirc you cant plunge it so you'd need to either tilt your router to start or just drill a starter hole to pop the bit into Trend Template bit

Not sure if you csn see it in my build, but I did the walls first and then the ceiling. I just put a length of batten on the gable osb for the ceiling osb to secure to. And yes, the studs are notched to sit under the rafter and protrude up the face of it and then some 50*50 to infil.

With a P/T I imagine ineffective extraction would cause more issues than none at all. None at all means they just end up blown over the floor as Mike says. A narrow hose or something on a bad extraction system and you'll clog up quite easily.