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When I started in electronics and early electronic computers in the mid 1960s, the most often used phrase was "Rubbish in = Rubbish out". AI depends upon what is "put in" and by whom. One of the most over used words these days is "Expert", who picks them and who vets them? I would guess that the...

I have been through all of the methods/equipment mentioned above., in painting the four houses I have built over the past 18 years (and refurbishing many more). I have used brush/roller but it was slow/tedious. One stairway wall I painted at least a half dozen times and could not get a good...

Gbobo, The neatest way of achieving the result you need is to make two swing out wooden brackets below the flap. If you look up "Pembroke table" you will see that the table flap (at each side of the table) used this method. The brackets are usually finger or "knuckle" jointed such that they stop...

Rob Carter, I have just measured the component on my ML8 and it is 35mm overall. As for paint I have in the past taken a part to a paint specialist (Brewers/Dulux etc) where they have a machine that scans the colour and will mix it for you.

Maybe I am a practicing Cynic but I am sure all of the paperwork or Online forms are designed for you to give up in frustration so that they can have their team meetings in peace and quiet. Having built four houses, now wading through paperwork to get the 5th underway, the steps needed since I...

Monkhouse, The door panels show medullary rays, which show up on Qtr.sawn oak, If the rear of the panel does not match the front as the great waldo says, then it is a veneered panel. The rest is solid oak apart from drawer sides. There is a pretty good explanation on "The Furniture Market" on...

I would go with recipio. A good technique is to thin the varnish around 20% white spirit and "cloth" it on dries very quickly and half a dozen coats can be put on without brush marks etc. (Store the rag in a metal tin). The legs look original to me so light staining to colour choice and same...

The hinges sugested by Sachakins might be strong enough but with that much leverage on the flap the fixings would be the problem. There are kitchen fittings (for fold-a-way mixers etc.) but they would need depth in the cabinet. Stays of some sort along with bureau hinges or folding brackets...

I agree Oak, the door panels could possibly be veneered as they show medullary rays, most prominent in quarter sawn oak. Which would be unusual to be used in large widths with solid oak.

Added to lefley's comment above this is the photomicrograph of Iroko.

Timber identification from photos is such a subjective process. I have a book "An atlas of photomicrographs for the identification of Hardwoods (HMSO 1961)". Which is the definitive info, if you have a microscope (which I don't). I believe you shave an end grain slice and magnify it (these I...

It is possible to buy 35mm Kitchen hinge repair plates, which might well cover the existing holes (screwfix for instance keep the Hafele version).

A professional woodturner friend had a large laminated blank (laminated by the customer,) separate while he was turning it and it knocked him down but luckily he wasn't badly hurt. He would only turn pieces laminated by himself after that. (He has a very large industrial machine). Though I have...

I don't know if it is the photograph (or my eyes) but it seems to have a bit of pale green streaks. Which would suggest Poplar/Tulip wood Poplar is quite light in weight compared to maple. Maple would be a bonus as in the UK quite expensive and definitely a good choice for the chopping board...

I would agree with eribaMotters above. I have two copies of George Ellis's book one a very battered old one and one a more recent reprint. I have a huge library of woodworking books, as I have long held the view that learning just one new technique pays for the book. (well that is my excuse!).

I am impressed with the help suggested by forum members. Though now retired, I was self-eployed for more than 40 years and I could have done with that help all of those years ago. Can I also commend the YouTube video by forum member Peter Millard on costing, which again had YouTube been around...

The cotter pin depicted by superduner is solid not hollow as the original post. I would call that in the photo a "clevis pin". I will stick to roll pin!

accipter, I have many thread gauges and you would be surprised how often they still do not fit!

I think I would lean towards Seascaper ie UNC, as seems a bit coarse for metric. An M4 machine screw would have a 0.7 mm thread pitch coarse (or 0.5mm pitch for fine). To me this would indicate you would expect 10 or 11 threads over the estimated 8mm length, wheras your photo seems to have no...

The original post was "I need to remove two of these small cylindrical hollow pins. Does anyone happen to know their names such that I can look them up as to how to remove! He lists his location as England. In my engineering apprenticeship they were "roll pins", split pins were a bent pin with...