Search results

Chris 152, I can't emphasize enough not to wind screws in too far, with plastic or unduline sheets it is easy to flatten or spread the sheet which messes up the meshing of adjacent sheets. As the screws go in at the crest, rain immediately flows down into the valleys, so a...

The caps came without nails or screws. I chose to use green outdoor screws which are available in various lengths. The caps are in two parts held together with a small plastic extrusion (so caps do not get lost,) this is helpful as sometimes in the summer the cap can pop up with expansion. I...

Chris152, Yes the ones like the Screwfix type. I seem to remember they came in much larger quantities and possibly without screws just the caps, probably bought with the sheets from the roofing supply company. I used c/sk screws, the green ones were quite thin 4.5mm (?), I also...

I have used this type of sheet for many applications, (I absolutely agree with the previous advice about support) I substituted the nails for screws with the clip down covers, I used the green outdoor screws (Toolstation et al). No problem with leaking. The single sheet type do however suffer...

For small quantities,my local B&Q stocks Citric acid and the Washing soda, I think they are 500g packs only a few £s, in the "household cleaning " isle.

During my apprenticeship, for calculating temperature I was taught to add 40 and them multiply by 5/9 or 9/5 (depending which way you are going) and then to take 40 off of the result. I like to do this calc. in my head (stirs up the old grey cells!). I have never forgotten BOMDAS in algebra...

Thank you Derek with the proof that the technique I described earlier, works!!

I have absolutely no problem in working in imperial or metric, but I find it easier to make a mistake in metric. Yes metric is simpler but most of the great technical advances were made under imperial or the US version of it! The point about all of the peculiar(?) imperial measurements is that...

When making a piece of furniture for a Park Lane, Hotel, I queried a dimension given by the Chief Engineer (Irish) as it was way off. He replied "when I was at school they were changing from imperial to metric, so I never learnt either"! A few years ago I was turned down for a knee joint...

Interesting information from Spritburner, in the UK Jeweler's saw blades are usually called Piercing saw blades and are numbered such as 4/0 getting finer (and more fragile) to I think 8/0, Swiss manufactured were the best. In restoration of marquetry, I rarely went finer that 6/0. I also used...

Autumn leaves, nice to look at but a real pain to clearup. We have a large Norway Maple in the garden with leaves like dinner plates! With reference to Sycamore trees, the seeds (twirly seeds) are deadly to horses (and possibly other animals?). Had a friend loose four Shire horses from wind...

RobinBHM, reading many of your posts, No one is going to change any of your opinions.

Unfortunately when I started out in electronics in 1962, there were no mobile phones!

When I started out in Antique furniture restoration in 1977, I did have a go at mixing my own french polish. I quickly realised that it was a waste of time! I just bought good quality polish from a good supplier, in my case W.S.Jenkins in Totenham, N.London and never went back (to home brew!).

Do any of you really believe that your arguments for or against, will change any minds? Which to me are completely polar opposites. What a waste of energy.

As an antique furniture restorer a method I have used over the years is to clamp battens across both ends and then use a hand saw to cut the "crack" all the way through. This gives a good gluing surface with little loss of width. The merit of hide glue over modern glues, is it is reversible...

I agree with BC'er. my first thought was a metal cutting lathe tool. One tool that I have seen is "toothed" hand tool for cleaning threads on a lathe and this could well be something like that.

I have such a door and the fine print mentions veneered on laminated core. This should mean that the face veneers are oak but the lippings (as they could well require trimming to fit) are another timber.

As a furniture restorer since 1977 I would say a straightforward repair. guing up is the problem. Yes careful cleaning and then making shaped blocks to go between clamp and top in the three planes from the two sides and also the top to ensure alignment. When clamped up dry, I would "drill" using...

Difficult to get this right but like Inspector, I'm a six footer (Wife is much shorter) and often catch my head on the corner of the hood, which is b-painful. I should have gone for the 45 degree type but too late now! Trouble is they are so much more expensive, not that I can see why.