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Is that Paul Sellers brother? :lol:

If I saw them I do it as CC described. However if the wood is straight grained I prefer to split them with a chisel. Cut the shoulders them chop at each end well away from the gauge line. If the split is straight or going away from the line then put the chisel in the gauge line and chop away...

That is what I have always thought, don't know where I picked up this idea so could be wrong. I wonder if the link above with an alternative explanation is from Sorby or the shop that's selling them. Either could be right or wrong but I would be more inclined to accept the definition if it came...

Just watched a couple of his vids with subtitles, some translations are a bit rough but easy enough to understand. Enjoyed watching him work, he does some fast sawing and chiselling. Love the low tech bench and saw horse, no clamping or vice, at one point he hammers a screwdriver into the bench...

That doesn't really make sense you could mount the saw blade either way around

I went in Lidl yesterday and they still had chisels. I bought a set a couple of years ago and they are fantastic value. They are slightly weird sizes and the smallest one is 8mm so you may need to buy a 6mm or 1/4". Narex (avaliable from Workshop Heaven) are pretty good value (although one...

Sorry to interrupt David and Charles, but if the OP reads this far I would recommend Narex mortise chisels if you are buying new, I have a couple and enjoy using them and find them better than using a bench chisel. They are trapezoid ground and sharpen nicely and are not too dear (check out...

propane in hair spray? wtf

, I get mine sharpened by North London Saws regularly. The blades are long (don't remember how long but its a big old Wadkin). They don't charge much, again I don't remember but I think it's about a tenner or less. They will not set them though so if the set is ruined they need replacing, they...

Hmmm. I have lifted mine by the table and it's been fine, however it's best avoided if possible

Nothing is flat and nothing is square, things can approach flatness and squareness to a tolerance. Nothing is 100%, not just no woodwork, but no matter in the universe, indeed all that can be meant by 100% is within the confines of your accepted tolerance The measuring equipment you use needs to...

Keith's beaten me to it, however I measured 500 for the cabinet from back to front and 150 for the handle that does the rise and fall (easily removed) leaving the switch box at 120 (also removable) Should fit through most doorways. Don't know if Keith's is from than a different period than mine...

I'll measure mine when I get to work.

I got these whe they were on special offer for £20 http://www.tooled-up.com/product/sealey ... -6/150282/ . However I would be happy with a cheaper pair. I find the 100th of a mill a bit distracting, for wood working if you are accurate to 1/10th of a mm then that is all you need to know. It...

I laughed at that, my band saw is an eight foot tall Wadkin, my table might weigh more than the saw he was demonstrating on. There has to be a serious problem before the table comes off.

Lathams is my supplier for birch ply, not sure if they do 1.5mm.

"Just one puff and you'll under my power". That's more like it

I really hope festool don't bring out lesser tools to compete on price like all the other makes have done. The whole point of festool for me is that once I've got over spending a billion quid I can be pretty sure the tool is going to be as good as it can be ( or pretty close).

I have a QS block plane and use it all the time. It is the only "premium" plane I have and cost more than my 4. 4.5, two no.5s and long wooden jointer put together. However I rarely, if ever, use it at the bench, I use it for fitting, templating and other jobs where I need a plane I can use with...