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Surely the traditional way also involves making an approximation of the mortice with the drill, then turning to a chisel to create the corners 'because the machine couldn't complete the job'. Whether the machine is a router or a drill is totally irrelevant.

I recommend the idea of getting a spare screw and cutting it into a self tapper. Often the lever cap screw goes into a blind hole, and tapping a blind hole with limited experience is a sure fireway to end up with a hardened tap snapped off in the frog. Which is no fun at all.

I'm duly chastened re: spelling. There should definitely be a name for the law which dictates that any attempt to be pedantic on the internet will inevitably contain at least 3 typographical errors or spelling mistakes. Getting back on topic, if it's a wireless mouse it's very likely a battery...

You man eratic cursor An eratic curser is that guy with the collection of plastic bags who stands outside Boots swearing at dogs.

If you wipe the abs with acetone to soften the surface, you can glue it with titebond.

I built a jewellers bench for my brothers girlfriend a year or so ago, I'll try to get a photo for you. I used 2"x2" 'red hardwood' from the local builder depot for the frame, and an ikea 35mm beech worktop for the bench top. It looked pretty good once it was done, and was nice and rigid...

You should be fine - the legs and top are both oriented with the grain in the same direction, The place you have to watch for movement is when gluing cross grain, or dissimilar timbers.

That's it - no more naked wood working in the bath for me... :?

It's an abomination, nearly as annoying as the Garmin adverts on the radio...

steam it to raise any compressed fibres, and then try filling with wax and buffing with a rag to match the sheen of the rest. You can also substitute shellac touchup stick for wax, it's available in a number of tones which will allow you to match the floor colour.

Hmmm, japs eye protection?

I also like to dirll for controls after finishing - with a sharp bit it's no problem, and I usually drill undersize then ream to final size with a tapered reamer. If you drill first, you can get a nasty build up of finish and compund around the holes, and this needs to be removed, which can be...

Yep - that would be my concern too, but from reading the OP it seems that the leg only failed during an attempt at dismantling the chair - so it has survived normal use up till now. In a way, this is hopeful, since a good glued repair should be stronger than the other area of short grain, and...

With the correct clamping (read: a couple of dry runs to get the technique perfect) I think that'll pull up nicely. I've just re-reviewed the pics posted, and there is very little evidence of hairy tearing, it looks like a perfect long grain break. I've repaired this kind of break on guitar...

As a dissenting voice; if that break goes together cleanly, you can just clamp it up with titebond, hot hide glue, or a good quality aliphatic resin, and it'll be as strong as it was before. Which is to say, not very strong, as the grain is aligned poorly, resulting in shortgrain where you...

IMO original Titebond will give you the strongest joint, assuming it's tight. CA is rather brittle, and epoxy needs roughened surfaces to really grip, and I hate the way it gets *everywhere* whenever I use it. As for wiping oily woods, ebony isn't oily, and wiping with solvents is actually...

Why do you not consider titebond suitable for light glue lines? I've bookmatched several maple or sycamore guitar tops using tightbond, and never had trouble with conspicuous glue lines. Looking forwards to seeing more progress on this project - I really like your design sketch.

Like Mignal said, this doesn't sound like a shrinkage problem. If the joint was tight, the glue can shrink like crazy and the joint will stay tight - the theoretically perfect glue joint has a layer of glue only one molecule thick. The only way that glue shrinkage can do this is if you were...

I have one, which I was given (!) by a customer, gratis. I only recently got it, so apart from cleaning it up and tetsing it I've hardly used it, but it looks very nicely made - no slop at all in the hinge mechanism, the fence is dead straight and easy to adjust. I've made a few trial cuts and...

As relative newbie here, I thought I'd post a couple of small bits of past work for you lovely lot to check out. First up is this display shield I made about 4 years ago, for my parents alumni association. Each year the organisation elects a president, and at the end of their term of office...