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Mick, don't waste time attempting a straight re-glue. It is guaranteed to fail in no time at all, and will make further repair more difficult by introducing mess and dried glue contamination. EDIT: Looks like I was typing as you were gluing - oh well! There are several ways to make that...

I have a 3.5 metre stanley powerlock (33-215), which I found in the gutter several years ago*. I've damaged one tape and replaced it (in the same case), because I find the size and operation very comfortable and familiar, I do that same again, the case is metal and so much nicer than the flimsy...

There's no place for a shoulder plane on a LPDC guitar, as the neck mortice is the full width of the neck - there are no shoulders to plane! Like this: I also use a router for cutting the trussrod slot. It's an easy task, and IMO getting comfortable and familiar with a router and it's wide...

Hmm, looks like it's a bolt rather than latch which is missing, and it looks like the lever which is still in situ may damaged, though it may just be flopping about without the bolt to support it. I'm sure it could be sorted by fabricating a new bolt, but given the age of the lock Mr.Olifent is...

John - images didn't come through, I could see the html img tags, but no URL or filename inside them.

Looking very good! I'd narrow the temples a bit - they're pretty broad compared to the face, but this may be because they've not been worked yet. Good luck with the hands... :O

How about a photo? I'm a Locksmith, and amateur metalwork tinkerer, might be able to offer something of help.

Link?

I made some using poly glue - I don't recommend it. I ended up with unpleasantly visible glue lines. It's partly imperfect material prep, but I know that the same glue lines with TB would have almost disappeared.

Like TheShark says, a pretty sharp kick when you first pull the trigger, but a nice accurate saw, I'm very happy with mine.

Your grain is oriented wrong - look at the way the grain runs on the example you're working from. The orientation you've used will leave a very fragile base and tip on the handle.

Specialist ironmongery suppliers make powder coated 'rim mount boxes' for fitting mortice locks to gates and the like. These bolt through the gate, much like your wooden box idea, but a bit sturdier. The company Baddely Rose used to make these, but just went bust. I'll see if I can find...

Absolutely lovely - fantastic design and apparently flawless execution. I've filed away at least half a dozen ideas to steal!

I'd be slightly concerned about the file being a little brittle for the forces a screwdriver is subjected to - otherwise, lovely job!

I'd recommend getting a plug cutter and filling the hole with a plug with the grain in the correct alignment. It'll glue better into the hole, and take a screw better as well.

Good to see another mimfer here - I built one for the $100 tele contest last year, it was great fun banging out something quick and dirty!

Magnificent!

Looks like a cracking job philly - the finish is lovely. I'd consider making yourself a fretpress, it's far more forgiving on the ears, and you get more consistent results too - it looks like you had quite a bit of levelling to do on your frets, which makes lots of extra work getting the frets...

I've turned a few of these - you have to be very careful once the narrow neck is formed, they get very flexible at that point. My favorite bobbin was one I turned from old maccassr ebony piano keys - they were too short to make a bobbin in one piece, so I turned separate bone necks and glued...

I'm not a fan of multipoint locks in timber doors, timber moves, and Multipoint locks can't cope with the alignment issues this creates. If your door moves, and you have to use extra force to operate the lock, it will fail prematuely and be very expensive to replace. I also don't like the fact...