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Exposed to the higher humidity of a bathroom, MR MDF will be fine. Exposed to the potential splashes etc. Adjacent to a sink, I'd be less certain, it depends how conscientious the users of said bathroom are about not leaving water standing on the surface.

Oh, and too late to help you now, but if you ever find your door is stiff, or you have to haul on the handle to close it, or hold it up to lock it, it needs adjustment. This is a half hour job, no parts. The opening and replacement is a couple of hours, plus the cost of the lock, and any delay...

You've probably either stripped the rack and pinion which transmits the handle pull to the locking points, or fractured a cam which does the same thing. New lockcase, or full length strip needed to fix it, as the parts which fail are rarely available. Getting it open, you can try to pry...

Mine is doing the same. It's very thin phenolic (sub 1mm I'd say) so not screwed on, just drilled with holes to suit threaded holes in the alloy base. Whatever you do, let me know how it works!

I've got a traditional style bench with deep aprons (ex uni woodwork dept circa 1950s), and I hold stuff to it with clamps all the time - using cheap and cheerful long f-clamps. IIRC they were from B&Q, and cost £15 for 2 x 300mm, 2 x 450mm and a bunch of plastic spring clamps.

I had an inkling it was. A perfect edge is difficult, I tend to get very close with a block plane then use a scraper or file, or sandpaper and a hard block to final finish. The grain in iron on edging is all over the place, which can make it a mare to work with, I use solid timber instead...

Is this solid wood lipping or iron on edging?

Not sure of that example - a hammer with a crooked face will drive nails crooked. Sure, you can adjust your swing to compensate, but this is working around it's imprecise nature.

I'd treat it *at least* as carefully as I would a bathroom or kitchen floor, which means any tilted laid over timber have a layer of 6mm cement board or equivalent to decouple the tiles from any movement in the timber. Personally, I'd totally dispense with the ply or OSB and tile directly...

The half inch and 16mm are plunged fully depth into the new sheet, removing the bulk of the material so that your bearing but is only doing light, accurate work. The 3mm cut is the first full size cut, but not the first cut.

I'd fit a 20mm guide Bush to my router, and choose a suitable half inch cutter which can be plunged without clogging. Plunge a half inch hole in each location, then swap the cutter for something larger - maybe a 16mm and repeat. Fit a bearing guided cutter and set the depth so you cut 3mm...

Mine is like yours, slightly squished ally tube. I suspect that this was a cost reduction measure over a cast or machined part in more recent production, though my drum is probably nearly 20 years old.

I clean out and refill the tubes from solvent free gripfill - they're easy to flush out with water, and the hole is big enough to use a bit of 15mm copper pipe to push back the plunger. Very handy for getting plasterboard jointing compound into gaps and corners without dropping it everywhere.

Doesn't look promising, the pics make it look like the track is much narrower than standard makita/Festool/Titan. Take some measurement once you've got it in front of you and if it's suitable I'll sort you out.

Post a pic of the track when it arrives, I have a number old lengths of Parkside track which might be compatible.

Yep, looks like hedgehog have tried to differentiate their products, and have succeeded, by making it work less well.

Does it have some kind of rigid piece inside? My airwedges all inflate like a "B" on it's back - with the item being lifted sitting in the crack, with a 'buttock' each side. If it gets to the point where it's just one big Arse cheek with no crack, it's over inflated and things get a bit...

Roger, put a shim under the door edge, so that it doesn't squash the bag flat. The only reason it went wedge shaped is because air could only get to one side of the bag. If the door is lifted enough for air to pass under it, you should find that bag behaves, at least until about 2 thirds fully...

Here's one I did recently, a bit of a Faff as it was on a winder, so it needed scribing to the angled treads which joined it. Not oak, which made it easier - this was reclaimed redwood, and I used 12mm for the plain faces, and 4mm (ish) for the complex scribe. Sorry about the picture...

I'd use solid oak for at least 2 faces, so you don't have to deal with the corners - I have glued long mitres in veneered mdf, but it's very difficult to soften the arrises without exposing raw mdf, and I think the corners on a newel would soon look tatty from knocks and scuffs.