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Mark i have read mixed reviews, mainly fitting to Felders, but reports varied from perfection to disaster.

+1 for the Panel lifter. I got mine from Axminster. They really do make a difference. Having said that 25mm MDF is beyond what one person should be lifting on their own.

Ouch. I might re think that. Although I do tend to put things like that at the back of the bench rather than front..

The cure for them rolling off the bench is a very old device called a tool well. The modern approach is to up end the gauge and place the pointy end in a dog hole. If you have Veritas round dog holes they are perfect. I fail to see how Veritas are responsible for you knocking the gauge off...

+1 for Whitmores. If you want oak they know their stuff

That really is a blast from the past. I bought a Spear and Jackson Saw circa 1979 when I first started out as an apprentice it looked just like your original. In 1982 I won a Disston. There simply was no comparison. I agree that Hard Point saws on the whole are not environmentally friendly...

You need to speak to the experts like Appleby. They will tell you. I have in the past rung them and told them what I was doing they will tell you which steel is best

I was talking about the initial build and fettling of the castings to get them working correctly not the time to adjust it to cut tennons. The Delta one might not of needed 4 hrs but the Rutlands (Chinese copy) needs time to remove all the bits from the casting that should have been removed...

It depends what wood you will be machining. If it is all softwood or all hardwood the best blade for the job will differ

+ 1 you can do a lot with it such as grooving, most things a biscuit jointer will do and it will be much cheaper

+ another for Appleby ask them for advice I found them very helpful

I do not do much brad nailing and found the electric ones useless so I got this http://www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-dn-8- ... 240v/22374 And a stanley air nailer. I find it far more powerful than electric and very portable

Brilliant I now see. In that case the 510 will be great . I prefer a higher working height for detail work but for what you are doing no problem. You need another winch to pull the jig through the bandsaw!

This would be more appropriate for making planks 2", 3" and 4" thick http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/chainsaw-mill I planked an 8" square balk 4' long on my bandsaw and it nearly corpsed me and took some work to support it

I have one but am in the process of setting it up. It is a tad rough and needs quite a bit of adjustment to get it working properly. It is a cheap copy of the Grizzly tennoning jig. I would work on needing 4 hours to set it up properly. Thereafter it should be accurate. If I get time to finish...

What sort of quantity? What sizes? for what purpose?

Felder has a bit of a marmite reputation. for me I like the accuracy Felder allow you to work. A Felder Bandsaw is very much an industrial machine. The question I would have is do you need something as powerful and large as this? How much resawing is "plenty of resawing"? If you do then...

No anything smaller than .5 micron will not be collected. But that is pretty fine so any dust should blow away in the wind

If you have or can get an old stanley or record and put in a replacement blade they are greatly improved. I would also consider a new stanley sweatheart. I bought one 2 years ago it is very good but heavy. Also it needs a bit of work that a LN does not to make it user friendly.

Get the Veritas and have both open or closed. All you do is turn the blade holder to the other side of the post.