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Ed if the Kapex is supported like yours and mine then the weight is not a worry but the OP asked about putting it on drawer runners that extend 600mm. At that point weight is a big issue. Think of levers

A base on wheels would be my route if you need to extend 600mm and then have wood sat on top it would need to be very well secured and be capable of very large loads. You also need to support the wood at the ends. It all starts to take a great deal of space and planning

I put my Dewalt on heavy duty drawer runners. The problem was it still took a lot of space. a movable cabinet may be better. In the end I sold my Dewalt and bought the Festool Kapex. The space behind the fence line can then be used as storage.

Yes I have made the joint. Matching router cutters and a well made jig are required.

A very rigidly mounted suva and a very rigidly mounted crown guard will be equal to the task. But a less rigid crown guard and a less rigid suva will cause problems. I have seen less rigid crown guards. for instance on my Felder the supplied crown guard is attached to the RK by a bolt as per...

It is a trade off. A crown guard can be wrongly adjusted for instance if you do not wind the bade down as low as possible part of the blade can be exposed. A suva provides a complete cover for the blade when it is spinning but not cutting wood whereas a crown guard leaves the sides and back...

Graham Yes that is it, but you try finding one like the drawing that you can buy. I like the wooden pieces. Modern ones are made of all metal so no good for the saw. I would make one but my metalwork skills are not up to it. When I did my apprenticeship we had one that fitted both the spindle...

Cutting a slot (groove) on a Table saw is permitted if you have a shaw guard and riving knife fitted. The problem is not many TS take a shaw guard these days. You also need a riving knife that does not go higher than the blade. The H&S recommend using an automatic feeder! in place of a shaw...

A SUVA mounted on the RK might be an answer as long as it does not reduce the depth of cut. Scott and Seargent say theirs does not reduce the depth of cut. It certainly looks an improvement on the flimsy crown guard on my Felder

You cannot keep the wood against the fence when pulling. You also tend to lift the wood. Both mean no control

After market identical version (well the same colour) http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-in ... rown-guard

Not necessarily several years ago I was mitring some cove mould for a side board and cut the end of a piece at 45 the off cut took flight and inbedded itself in my thumb. Two stitches

The important measurements are: FFL to FFL to give the overall Rise The top of the joist especially if the string will sit on it if you do not have newel posts at the top but even if you have posts it is good to know the size of the joists If the Newel posts are starting below FFL then you need...

The only way I can get my head around it is with a story board and full scale drawing (usually a sheet of hardboard) of the winders and then set it out on the newel post and stringers. No doubt there are other ways but I no where I am with this method

Do you need to change? the Dewalt is accurate maybe all you need is to tune it up and fit a false fence and replace the cutting groove with a home made zero tolerance version. If set up correctly it is as accurate as the festool. You may need to replace the blade for a fine 72 or 96 tooth blade.

I too have just bought the DC1100 with Vortex and cartridge filter but having read Bill Penz site again went for 6" spiral pipe with a removable 90 degree bend which I bought from Ducting Online. I currently have 4.5" drain pipe but I do not think it is big enough to get the airflow. Also bear...

Transoms are as I stated earlier "An intermediate horizontal member of a frame" see Ellis at page 454 and Plate XXI or think of a 1930's casement window with a top hung casement then the transom is the piece of frame between the top and bottom casement. also a door frame with a top light then...

Jacob you better let George Ellis know he does not know what he is talking about at page 206

The first problem is I am not sure where we are in the frame or the sash. If it is a frame then the vertical divider is a mullion and the horizontal a transom. If in the sash it is a glazing bar. That said if you are dividing the frame into four sashes I would run the mullion through and...

In Stoke there is Hymors. They have a good selection of hardwood and softwood.