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It is great in my ancient timber frame house. I have used it on a solid 1B wall and I cannot believe the difference it has made. The whole idea is it breaths with the wall, absorbs moisture and releases it. I must admit the act of sticking wood fibre and MDF to a 1B wall was a leap of faith...

I have the LS Positioner fence and Mast R router lift and made my own table to suit my need. The LS positioner is excellent as is the router lift. Whether it is worth the money depends what you are doing and how much you use it.

Whilst nowhere near as good as the hinge in Ellis you could achieve the same result with cranked hinges. You would just offset them in height. whether it could look as neat would need a mock up but it would function.

One of these French Door Bolt - Pewter - Various Sizes - Slide Action Bolts - Bolts - Door Furniture - Marches Architectural Ironmongery

A bolt that you push up that uses the rafter to hold the door?

Magnetic stay DRG Stainless Steel Decorative 24Vdc 112N Door Retainer | Fire Protection Shop 302-098

Is it too late to reverse it so it opens inwards? When open is it 180 degrees against a wall or 90 degrees in the corridor? If it is against a wall you can get magnetic door release plate (needs electricity), though whether it would hold a door when the wind gets it! I put a hook and chain on my...

Not all. I know plenty of identical sets of books that are read regularly (or at least were until they were digitised). Some in rooms nearly as grand as Mike's photos.

Yes I have considered it, but I do actually use the full width 410, especially thicknessing by working my way left to right and back again. Planing I agree the front 150mm gets all the work unless I consciously move the fence over. There is no reason why I could not fit 4x 100mm blades per...

I have the Tersa system on my Felder, there is hardly a week when I am not pleased I have it. The time saving is great but the real advantage is running three sets of knives at a time. 1 for rough, 1 for fine finish and 1 for softwood. You can swap them in 5 minutes. Someone also recommended...

Oooh I like the little curtains above the books to stop dust

Many Barristers Chambers have Mahogany or Oak Bookcases full of the heaviest books you can imagine. I have never seen problems with them. The books are invariably hard covers so the paper is elevated slightly off the shelf. Some of the books will be 150 years old as many law reports started...

That is probably not enough suck, you need to check but I would have thought a machine like that would need 1000cfm or 6000M3/hr. Most thicknessers need at least 1000cfm

A few questions: What is the extractor capable of extracting in cfm or M3/hr? What size ducting do you have? Is it a straight run or circuit?

Read my last post on this thread

Tony you need a short fence for cutting real wood. The whole reason that a Rip fence for real wood stops at the gullet of the tooth is so that the wood can move freely once cut. If there is a full length fence it will bind and that is dangerous. If you are pushing the wood against the fence...

I was always told that the Rip fence should be aligned to the gullet of the cutting teeth. That remains good advice. The problem with full length fences is that real wood moves when cut and can get jammed between a full length fence and the saw blade. This is very dangerous as the saw blade at...

If you must put scaffold boards in a thicknesser, then consider getting a machine with disposable blades that will at least reduce the pain of hitting a buried nail, staple or stone. I keep a set of blades for the (rare) times I need to put some dubious wood through my thicknesser, I then swap...

If it is straight grained and knot free it will split easy with a wedge . If the grain is gnarly then the chainsaw is the answer. I spent yesterday chainsawing gnarly lumps that I had saved up to have one big chainsaw session.

Maybe he had a Friday afternoon machine. I have not seen any of the problems encountered by the nay sayers