Search results

Alternatively a crown guard that fully encloses the blade would have made the incident impossible. A physical barrier is always preferable to technology.

Try Ducting online

I have a couple of Bosch extractors the hoses fit in either way. Bosch hose to Festool or Festool hose to Bosch extractor.

Wilko’s Has been fine. Never tried the expensive version to see if it is better

Not sure of your definition of eye waveringly expensive, but have you tried Peak Oak?

Phil, it will make a difference as the further out the more vibration and stress on the cutter.

How far was the shank in the collet. Trend usually have a insert line.

If you need such a cutter get it from Wealden. Also you need a router table with micro adjust in both height and width as in order to set it up you need to make very careful adjustment to suit the specific piece of timber. You could not use this cutter with a hand held router.

It is probably worth testing to find out how much of a problem you have first. If your fears are confirmed I agree with Mike that British Gypsum have invested millions in research to produce solutions to problems. Follow their advice. You can get reasonable sound meters as free apps on your phone

One other possibility if the above suggestions do not work is to check your feed rollers are not gummed up or worn. But the most likely cure is a bit of wax on the bed.

Chris this video shows what I had in mind https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KK8ZB29GS_c

Check out the DMT plates for the Worksharp 3000 https://www.dmtsharp.com/sharpeners/ben ... -system-1/ -not cheap but they do last and the coarse was aggressive enough to grind. I got mine on Amazon USA and had them shipped and delivered cheaper than the UK supplier. And/or try MDF and some...

Eric, Long may it remain exaggerated. Your "Spindle Moulder Handbook" not only sits on my shelf but it regularly is in the shop whilst I check I am about to do something reasonably safe, so thank you and I look forward to many more such books.

Have you got a toothed blade for your scrub plane? Sometimes these cause less tear out used across or angled to the grain. Sounds counter intuitive but I think it is because it breaks the grain rather than scooping out large pieces. Alternatively work the scrub plane across the grain. The...

Setting the cap iron close to the edge is for finishing difficult grain as you have seen. A scrub plane is for removing stock quickly so you would not want the cap iron set close. It would make more difficult. if you need something to stop tear out you could use the scrub plane to reduce to...

Given that SG, Leadwood.

I would "Plane" (in UK we have a Planer not a Jointer) a face and edge. Then depending on how much waste there is either saw to within 2mm and then run under thicknesser to size or just thickness to size. If you saw the face and edge and then plane it there is no guarantee the reult would be...

Also the difference of 125 mm duct over 100 is nearly double not 50% more.

The golden rule of ducting is to have no more bends than needed so if you install the fan on the ceiling that is 1 or 2 less bends

If you are going to put the duct on the ceiling why not put the fan for your 300 up there as well. You should also go with 125 ducting. Your extractor will handle it well and give you close to 50% more air movement. I did both of these a few years ago it works very well but I also extracted to...