Search results

Your lucky. I hit a nail with the rip saw. There was not a tooth left.

That is easily done whilst awake :oops: . I put a permanent marker arrow on my groovers. In your case black will show up nicely against the red.

Your right. Time to get a proper table saw.

Bob, if it is that bad should you be using it at all? I suspect there are ways. First why can you not remove the crown guard whilst you get the fence parallel to the blade and then replace it before switching the saw on. It must be bolted to the riving knife somehow. Second if you cannot clamp...

Bob, try setting up a rip fence. you could clamp a straight piece of timber to the table as before and then fix a short fence to it that ends at the gullet of the tooth nearest the front edge. Then rip a piece of straight timber. Do not focus on the relative position of the timber once it...

Bob, can you take a photo of your fence set up and positioning. It does look like something is not right on the fence. It is either not parallel or is too far forward. The fence should end at the gullet of the tooth just above the table for rip cuts. Also are the teeth marks on the photo...

No Why not laminate it?

That is a very hard ask. First the motor has to be capable of the air changes through a very fine and very big filter. Then you need to think about air flow in your shop. Just because you have a motor recirculating air does not mean all the air gets to go through the filter. It is quite...

I gave up on digital earlier this year and went back to mechanical dials. I trust the measurement more but the real benefit is I use them more. With digital you either keep the battery in the house or the unit somewhere warm over winter but then it is a faff to check the dimension as you...

The concern I have is that the fungus that causes the Spalting is allegedly bad for humans. In which case you would not want spalting anywhere near food

If you have gone to the trouble of mitring the joint (taking time), whilst it may slow it down further, paint the ends. no glue no sealant.

I have only ever used tite bond type glue. Also all the staircases where I have seen the construction in the uk used the same.

For best results it is best to have at least two blades. One for Ripping with as few teeth as you can get. A second for cross cutting timber with 60+ teeth. If you cut man made boards such as melamine or veneered MDF then a blade with 90+ teeth is needed. Trying to find one blade to do all...

I would contact Axi and ask for a replacement machine. The tyres need to be in good order if they are deformed that is an issue.

Definitely should not be high and low spots on the Wheels. Is this the cause of the oscillation. You can check by turning the wheels by hand and seeing where the blade is in reference to the guide. If it is I would send the machine back. Are there tyres on the Wheels?

The sideways oscillation is a problem. First are the guides set close say a couple of sheets of paper clearance. Second is the tension right. Not by reference to any gauge but is it in tune or can you press the blade with reasonable pressure over by say 10mm or less anymore and it is not...

It depends how you want to cut the sheet of plywood. On a table saw then you need 17' by 9' area for the saw. With a Rail and Saw you just need enough room to stand one side of the sheet so 10' by 6'

Genius, Steve. These are the sort of details I would not think of in a million years. As for clamping Axminster sell universal fence clamps.

Ah. Now I understand. It is for those with more money than sense! Also this side of the pond, we do not have a deposit scheme for recycling our empties, so would need to finance the new blade a different way.

Oh it drives a couple of Kilo of Aluminium into your £100 saw blade thereby ensuring that not only do you pay for Saw Stop in the first place but now a replacement module and saw blade is needed. How much is a crown guard and push stick! Or even for that matter a SUVA Guard.