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CF145 Black granite, I think its probably the right one, that photo doesnt really do it justice with flash highlighting the join, in light of day today it doesnt look too bad. I have a mate with one the same colour, I will take a look at his joint and compare :)

:oops: Its not fitted, just propped up under to see how it looked. I was lucky I suppose as its a real nice fit without touching it, a couple of mil clearance which will mostly go when I fit a plinth sealing strip under it. I think you can just measure the gap and deduct 5mm from the depth in...

the 1.5 deg was the figure that kept cropping up as being the max you could go out of square, I didnt get to try going over it so unsure why. In theory if you cut the female standard, fit the board, get the next and lay that in position against the wall on top of the female with the outer joint...

Well its looking a lot closer now. Joining the worktops.... Such a silly place to have a joint! an 800 unit trying to make out its a corner unit with a drawer rail just where the joint bolts go. So I made up a couple of hardboard and timber "helpers" to keep one end of the toggles in the...

There is a way as long as its not more than +_ 1.5%, I researched this quite a lot when doing mine but in the end only needed to scribe one end (female) into the wall plaster very slightly to get a good right angle to cut the male on. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bc5X3v_4HY That guy wanted...

More progress!! I fitted the tap to the sink and used 2 foam seals around the sink to seal it down, didnt use the plumbers mait as I thought it would get too messy trying to clean up the overspill. I may once its in use, if it seems like dirt is getting under the lips of the sink use some clear...

Another update to the saga, I'm suprised anyone's still reading this :wink: Had to recut the sink cutout, there was no supplied template and I had erred on the side of caution and made it 5mm too small for comfort so had to go at it again for my pain, the sink now sits in the hole nicely so...

xy, the ends are already routered to size. But I will sand them down some as well. Square ends are fine here as neither end is in a hip catching position. So contact adhesive it is then ;-) On to hob cutting tomorrow though first. Cheers

Jason, many thanks for the tip, I cut it today using the strips of hardboard and even with bits of nail in the chipboard trying to bounce the jigsaw I got a damage free worktop.

A bit more done today. Taped up the worktop and measured for the cutout, must have checked the measurements 10 times, just to be sure! We have all seen a sink :wink: but here it is anyway. Because its a bowl and a half its going to be hard up against this side to fit in a 600 unit and...

Hi Karl, I will cut in situ after removing the doors and dragging the dishwasher out of the way as the drainer fits over that. The bowl and a half is pretty tight in a 600 base too, might need to get inventive on some of the clip positions. I already removed the back rail and made the back panel...

The sole plate looks fine and smooth already Philly, no burrs which is why I was at a loss to figure how the scratching occured. As Jason says maybe I had a small bit of metal in the chips. Jason, you just saved me a worktop! I already know that the jigsaw is hard to keep on a line through this...

I have the correct blades laird so I dont chip the laminate, it was scratching by the sole thats the problem. You only have to look wrong at this stuff to scratch it. Monkeybiter, that sounds like a plan :) if I cover the worktop surface with masking tape first then tape down the sheet of...

That of course would be ideal wizer, but that also means as its high gloss finish and I will be minus some man bits if it gets scratched.... taking it off the units, moving to padded workmates and cutting. No its not fixed in place or joined to the other length that I also have to cut for a hob...

I have a new Bosch PST 700 PE jigsaw which I tried to use on my glossy kitchen worktop yesterday and even with masking tape under it I managed to scratch the surface somehow. I am now frightened to use it again to cut the hob and sink cutouts until I solve the reason for the scratches. The...

Well time for an update, I cut all the cornice and pelmet mitres with my sliding mitre saw, had to make a jig to join them using mitremate as that stuff goes off in 10 seconds or less and trying to do it freehand was just too tricky for me. Anyway got them all done and mostly fitted, had to...

Got a bit more done on this project. The 900mm hood has a 150mm extract outlet and my biggest core drill is 127mm, so not wishing to buy a new core drill for 1 hole I elected to suffer a bit of arm ache by cutting the inner hole with a pad saw :oops: Its plaster and soft block so not too hard...

Hi Andy yes I do have a tall double oven unit that came with an extra small door type panel that you cut to fill in the gap between top of oven and normal sized top door, I would think that maybe these are used to attach the small panel to the bottom of the top door. Cheers for that ;)...

I have a couple of Homebase kitchen bits left over... :oops: I put them to one side when opening packets during the build and now for the life of me cant think where they should go. They are not mentioned that I can see on any of my paperwork and the suppliers dont know what they are either...

Thanks for the link Paul, looks easy there. Trim the corner is acute, looks like about 10-15mm runout in 2.5mtrs. I have read that you can cut the male side of the mitre at up to 1.5 deg out of square and still have it mate up nicely, I am going to give this a try as with all the trouble I had...