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Thanks for all the suggestions - I have now decided what to do . . . but am waiting on the spangly fixing plates which are on order from the UK agent of a Danish manufacturer. If I remember I'll post some snaps of WIP when I get to assemble it all as it does seem a nifty solution.

I've just ordered some of the heavy duty screw in things that work with an Allen key - with them and epoxy down the holes that should work. I'm going to use the resin that works in a caulking gun as it has a long thin nozzle to pass through the threaded insert - just then need to be quick with...

Yep the "spike nuts" wouldn't work as the would/could pul out of the plywood "end grain" - although I am using them for the adjustable feet which are a) to level the table as it straddles two surface finishes, and b) to keep the end of the plywood legs off the floor in case of any water/mopping...

The legs have already been drilled with 10mm holes for the studding - see pic. I made a jig that clamped around the leg and them clambed a "mini-drill press" on the top to get the hole absolutely vertical. I had expereimented with drilling a sample leg section for the "screw in bolt!" idea but...

It's half in my mind to use them as well as the resin/glue - the one slight concern is that they may split the laminated plywood - and I have to drill out a slightly larger hole for the first n?mm to accommodate the insert, with the rest of the dept of the hole (total in leg will be about 100mm)

As it's plywood laminated together to I'd be drilling into vertical layers and be concerned about spliting, or failing with any flexing. I have just screwed 12mm studding into some hardwood with results that worked. The current project being a pretty heavy table needs stability!

I don't think the threaded insert idea would be stable enough as they're only gripping a very short part of the stud on a pretty long (71cm) leg - and the table top is plywood 160 x 90cm (18mm with 100mm "rails" laminated all round underneath to give the appearance of 36mm plywood edge...

I need to fix some short (125mm) lengths of studding into some table legs made from laminated plywood (72mm square) - the studs will protrude about 25mm and screw into plates fixed to the underside of the table - see pic of legs with studs loose in the holes. The bottom of the legs will have...

Belated update: The previous supplier was able to supply 18mm Stretek Poplar cut to the sizes I wanted. It's WIP here in the workshop. The table legs are 72mm square, made from 4 off 72mm wide x 71cm long strips of the ply laminated together (loads of glue and clamps) the plywood exposed...

I have an Eclipse frameless hacksaw saw that has a wide, flat (about 4") blade with a conventional hacksaw blade fitted along it - it's for cutting sheet metal material. I also have a conventional model from the same era. They were both my grandfather's. There's one for sale (not mine) on...

I've seen this website but not bought anything - have to say if "despatch" was made on 3 Sep (a Sunday) and if it's RM then the delay isn't that surprising. The website has a physical address which looks legitimate - you may be jumping the gun with your fear of being scammed. It's probably a...

Recent enquiries I've made suggest that unless the saw is something extra special then sharpening/resetting, sadly, isn't economically viable unless you can do it yourself.

It will! - I've replaced a similar situation recently where not only was the "step" on the coupling the wrong way round there was a sagging flexible pipe. Not pleasant.

For mixing/colour matching the premium brand (so-called) paints like F&B, LG etc I've found Brewers to be top-notch - with very accurate matching and quality paints.

All items now sold.

I think @petermillard may know the answer?

Yep - the razor blades had slots and holes along the centre for the retaining bolts.

That tool was originally for old-style razor blades (Gillette, Wilkinson Sword etc) - my Dad used to keep the dull blades that he'd shaved with and used them in the tool - especially good for scraping paint off glass.

Some OSB scraps, a length of M8 (or larger) studding and a couple of nuts. Simple. [Pic is the bicycle repair/servicing side of my workshop but blue roll is in easy reach of the woodwork side]

I'm just about to order some Stretek Poplar faced ply to make a new dining table (a larger version of the one I made 3 years ago using Birch ply - which is now unobtainable) - the sample I have is excellent, a very close match in appearance to Birch and about 13 plies in an 18mm board - a test...