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Current workshop is mid-grey flooring paint (with some areas covered in plastic/rubber interlocked "checkerplate" tiles that are easier on the feet) - previous workshop was green floor paint . . . grey is better, easier to see small things you might drop.

Have to say I've found that any "digital" verniers are a bit hit and miss with the wheel that moves slipping and giving the wrong reading (that includes a very expensive model from Park Tool, the US bike tool company) - I've gone back to the good old sliding steel analogue model that's served...

I built a bare Birch ply table last year and finished it with 3, may have been 4, coats of OSMO Top Oil - no complaints so far. We also have the special OSMO spray cleaner which is formulated for the finish - in a few months I'll use the OSMO cleaner (not the spray) and re-apply some Top Oil...

Axminster's video on YouTube yesterday (18 Feb 21) had a pros and cons of a table saw or bandsaw . . . the fact that Craig, the presenter, only had a bandsaw in his own home workshop was probably indicative . . .

Sorry dunno - I've already got one, IIRC from Screwfix - but with an added plywood table with fence and T-track clamping.

I was there today - bought Japanese saw and a long ruler/level that's not on the website - as I went in a bloke was coming out with 2 barrows piled high with tools, looked like the saw and drill press (more than one of each) - presumably an ebay re-seller? Jap saw seems OK - I have a spangly...

B&D drill and jigsaw both c1980 still functioning - limited use the last couple of years but before that they did a lot of work.

The Mens Shed local to me (I'm not a member) makes a range of bird and other animal feeders - mainly using pallet wood. If you go to the Mens Shed website there are (or were) links to various locations and some examples of the stuff they make.

Stanley used to sell a hobby vice a bit like that years ago IIRC it had jaws at 90 degrees - clamped to a table edge for either horizontal or vertical workpiece

Posted elsewhere on here too.

Steve Ramsey is actually in Metro San Francisco, not Chicago . . . very entertaining and informative but I find the obsession with cats a bit annoying.

Yep - that's me - right-handed, stops on the left . . . The bench to the left has a normal top with T-track for the fence (and a couple of other tools/jigs) and the bench top on the right of the saw is an MFT - I don't have a fence for the MFT/tracksaw combo but use 40mm bench dogs to set...

At the opposite end of the spectrum -today we launched the neighbourhood Tiki Bar I made - ready for alfresco drinks as and when permitted - it's shared by about 10 houses in our road. It's made from an old bedframe, pallets, a couple of wheels I've had for about 30 years . . . the most...

Apologies on the lack of clarification re the complete kit . . . . like the Kreg jig purchaser up-thread I stumbled across my Trend jig with drill, driver bit (new in the box) and two bags of screws for £25!! Drifting away for a moment, recent tool bargains for me were a couple of traditional...

The ideal solution is to mount the mitre saw on a lowered "shelf" between two normal height benches with the saw bed level with the benches either side - that way you have support for longer pieces being sawn, and the ability to fit a fence - perhaps with a rail and stops for repeat cuts. The...

I've seen the @petermillard and IF films and it does seem pretty simple and clever BUT at £170 just for the small jig (£400+ for the fully size) I would find it hard to justify for the small number of projects that I would see myself using it for - thus pocket holes do the job for the most part.

Carpet fitters that I've used usually have a stone to sharpen Stanley blades (they, of course, use the knives with the "twist and release" blade changing mechanism for speed.

Pretty sharp - but not to my taste I'm afraid. The narrow rack on the inside of the cupboard door is a great feature (we have the ironing board in a rack on the inside of our pantry cupboard door - same concept)

Another positive comment for pocket holes - using a Trend jig. I do usually use glue as well - especially on the rare occasion I stoop as low as using MDF (but that's really just for lack of confidence in the structural integrity of stuff made with MDF . . . I can hear @petermillards hackles...

That would be my take on using pallet wood too . . . most of the stuff I make from pallets just has quick superficial go over with the random orbital sander to smooth out the grain a bit and that's it (and sometimes a coat of cheapest water-based clear varnish to seal the surface)