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https://amzn.eu/d/7yZOQ5C Apologies it turns out it is 40w!

I have a dehumidifier running 24/7 in the shed workshop, it draws 30w = £60 per year. Agree that is a bargain for keeping my tools and machines rust free!

ACF-50 lasts for absolutely ages. You can get it either in an aerosol can or in a pump spray bottle. The thing is, there isn't a product that will work for everything. For tables i.e planer table or table saw, you're better off with a paste wax or liberon, for hand tools, whatever you use will...

Another vote for ACF-50 and Liberon Lubricating Wax. I have a shed workshop and live on the coast so have lots of humidity + salt that attacks tools and machines. I am winning the fight to keep on top of corrosion and rust, but it is a constant effort. I do find that ACF-50 if applied too...

I've not used that Fisch CSK one, both of mine are the Fisch ones with the plain shanks. If you report that it turns out to be any good I might order one of those CSK ones as it would be handy to have one with a hex shank sometimes.

I use the Fisch countersink bits with the single hole through the middle. Stays sharp and always makes a clean hole. They do two sizes but looks like only the smaller one available on this website currently. https://www.quality-woodworking-tools.com/product/fisch-premium-chatter-free-countersinks/

You will find a great deal of advice on this forum and if you post about your problems as and when they arise I have no doubt there is the knowledge and experience on here to help with whatever you come across.

I completely rebuilt a 636 planer/thicknesser about 18 months ago. I bought it in a bit of a state from an old barn clearance, stripped the machine to individual components, removed of rust, cleaned and then re-treated before re-assembly. Mine didn't have a fence so I had to make one and have...

He wanted a slice through a tree trunk, with bark intact. Doesn't matter hugely about the thickness, probably ideally 30mm or so. It doesn't need to be strong either as it's only to be used sat on a table to put a cake on it for my sisters wedding.

I'm saying that I used a real oak kitchen worktop (not veneer) in the end. Worktops are made of smaller staves so there are joints and that isn't to everyones taste. The veneer (which I didn't order or use in mine) won't be like that, it will be full veneer sheets of complete width with no...

That was on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285448187697 In the end I made the shelves out of old kitchen worktop, was cheaper and quicker than making them and veneering etc, plus they are both stiff and strong. I attached two narrow battens to the wall at the alcove sides, made two slots in...

My uncle asked me today if I could make/get a 'cookie' slice he wants for a cake stand. It needs to be about 50cm diameter which is much larger than I can put through the bandsaw! Does anyone know anywhere in Essex that would have such a thing. I can't imagine many lumber yards cut them as I...

I use 'Timbashield' from A-Chem which is available in a few colours but I mainly use the clear for outdoor wood and the red cedar one for my shed. https://www.achemshop.co.uk/product-category/woodcare/timbashield/ It is a solvent based product so is a pleasure to use, I used to paint it on...

This is exactly what Triton did with their TRA001 and TRA002 routers. I have one which I mostly use in a table top (pictured below) but sometimes use handheld. It is absolutely brilliant and would highly reccomend it. You can see in the photo the winder which you use above the table...

High shelves and/or cabinets are not going to affect your useable space, I would be keen to do that. As long as you mount them to the battens it should be ok, alternatively take the plasterboard off and add some decent timbers behind it for you to secure the cabinets/shelves to.

Of course, you can add all of this to your hose, however, you have to bear in mind that with every extra cm of hose lengthyou reduce the effectiveness of the system, and more-so with any hose diameter changes, you also reduce the effectiveness of the system quite significantly in some cases...

It would be good like you say to see some videos of it in action cutting some larger veneer slices.

If you read through the other thread (third point made here https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/jig-to-cut-veneers-on-a-bandsaw.146999/post-1727190) I think it is evident where the confusion lies. As I understand it now they were originally trying to make their cuts with the desired veneer...

I totally see why it might seem snarky and perhaps it could have been worded more carefully, but if you look through the previous posts and threads about this there has been a complete reluctance until this latest post to acknowledge that the existing way people already cut veneers does actually...

This is just not true, the purpose of the fence is to provide the reference surface to give you your final dimension of the wanted piece. So it is the case that the offcut lies outside the blade, and not between the blade and the fence. This is why extension tables exist and are often not as...