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This is what makes me think that

Do you find parts need scrubbing intermittently during the process?

When I was reading up on this in the winter for the planer I was restoring, I ended up not using it as it looked really fiddly for small parts (with everything having to be in contact with the ?cathode?), whereas with the ultrasonic cleaner approach it was just a case of throw everything into a...

+1 for adding a soft-start to the excel site saw. I did it with mine (theres a thread on how to do it somewhere if you search) and it wasn't too difficult a modification and cost about £8 i think. Makes a huge difference the thing was horrible starting up before.

Not at all, I was only thinking of basically the same product that Ed Weber suggested just using sprung wheels rather than a rubber strip.

I used some restore rust remover (google search) successfully recently, an ultrasonic cleaner with whatever solution you choose in is almost essential, particularly for small parts. Ultrasonic cleaner is expensive but worth every single penny, I couldn’t believe how much difference it made...

You could design some kind of sprung feed rollers to keep pressure on the board against the fence as it passes through. Could be powered or non-powered. Would remove a hand from the operation that you would usually need to apply the side pressure. Most machines have cast iron tables so you...

I have one of these (paid £200 I think), and I get on really well with it. It's a site saw and that has to be acknowledged so it isn't as sturdy as a cast iron machine, but it works great and I use it for everything from intricate work to sheet good stuff. The mitre gauge it comes with is a bit...

Thanks both, I had a go and was successful! I had a bit of an issue at a corner with it catching but managed to hammer it back in and some CA glue sorted it out.

I'm making a box which has some brass inserts in. They are small strips about 2-3mm in depth. I need to flush trim a section which will involve trimming the brass - wondered if anyone has tried doing similar. I am planning to set the lowest speed and try a carbide bit, wish me luck...

I have the same saw and I bought two of these tracks about a month ago. Aluminum Plunge Saw Guide Rail 1.5m 1500mm 59" - Suits Makita Festool Evolution They are sold as 'unbranded' but they just send you the makita tracks. 100% compatible with the festool saw, less than half the price!

Haven't posted an update on this in a while but have been busy working on it. Reinstalled everything and re-mounted the newly cleaned and polished table. New tyre fitted to the top wheel to replace the horribly worn out one. Got 2 blades from Ian at Tuffsaws 3/4" - Fastcut (Basically...

I have the green one I think the model is 310. I have not had a chance to play with it at all yet and did not want to in case I was not going to keep it. It seems to have come with a black stiff hose, which I don’t think is for water or dust extraction, but I have not actually looked at it...

My brother in law gave me one of these yesterday (Home - Exakt Tools Ltd) I have no idea if to keep it or what, has anyone got any experience with one?

I'm consistently surprised with what a small bandsaw can do with the right blade. I have a tiny 3 wheeled CBS355 and yet manage to resaw 14cm boards (not quite as big as yours, but its max capacity).

I would be expecting you need to use something with at most 6TPI for that sort of thickness. I’d be very surprised if a 14TPI didn’t end up just burning. I get my blades from tuffsaws and Ian there gives outstanding advice if you contact him by email. There is a guide on the axi website as to...

We used these type of things when making our bed, it’s a super king and is absolutely solid. The ones we used were from Rockler and were solid. You do have to make sure to mortise out behind the slots where the hooks will protrude into your post behind the female bracket.

I made the assumption that he was cutting out a circle rather than bending wood to make the circle. I didn’t consider that but would make much more sense and be more economical with wood.

I might use my router table with a 45 degree bit and make a jig to allow me to increase the table angle by 5 degrees. Alternatively I might make two hoops, one as a template, then make a block on the bottom of my router to give me the 50 degree angle I want and then use a flush trim bit to cut...

You can usually find compact solutions for most stuff, its just working out whether you are better buying something and modifying to fit, or making something to work in your space. If I had a larger shed it wouldn't matter if something took up too much space but where space really is limited it...