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Droogs? Whereabouts please? No1 child lives in Dalmeny Street and I wouldn't mind a dander up memory lane when she and her mother get too "virtual retail therapy" for my liking... Thank you, Sam.

:D :D Not in the same league of course, but my team-mates in the school 2nd XV would rarely include me in a running move; second row forwards were - in their eyes - "not built for speed..." :? Sam

Hey Steve? I reckon it won't be long before MikeG starts referring to it as his "hand tool station"...then the bench will be his "primary work station" and... :D Sam, ducking and running away VERY fast, as he remembers throwing things quickly and accurately was a primary necessity of MikeG's...

:D Just yankin' your chain, sort of contrapuntal to your tag line? "I have enough..." Sam

I know you're a tool Spartan Mike, but you've still got more saws and screwdrivers than I have...and I started in 1974...just sayin' :-" Sam

That Rutlands one looks interesting. It would certainly help once you got to within 1-2mm of final dimension. Until you work out how many mm's vertically a turn of the handle equates to, it's easy to over-cut... #-o There is not such a problem.when roughing down, so the 'ballpark' linear scale...

Yes...but I tend to surf for a different kind of wood to that I presume is found on ****hub... :D Sam

Chris, How do You know about ****hub?? :twisted: Sam

Cut back the fruiting canes only Steve. Leave the others alone, they are next years fruiting ones. Sam

Hi Student, glad it worked for you! I almost never used that awful guage up the side of the input side! I measured the wood, cocked my head sideways to approximately set the cutting head height via the scale, then started passing offcuts and winding down the head until I got 'bite'. Thereafter...

Mike, they do get 'whacked' by tired or clumsy woodworkers. Also the moment of force applied by a substantial section, long, piece of timber as you manoeuvre it, can bend them. (No, I haven't with the AGS, but I did on the piddly TS200). So, being stiff is a priority requisite. More so as the...

If you can find a tatty old (blunt/lost teeth) saw blade 10" or 12", they are an ideal source of good steel. The older the better and surface rust is not a problem. Ths is how I made mine for my AGS; it was from the sixties or fifties, via a a workshop clearance. Sam EDIT...

Purist!! :D Sam

Man....There are some big-hearted, altruistic, NICE people on this site. My deepest "Thanks!" in particular to AES for the long, informed reply when I asked him for help on Linda's behalf and the subsequent action he took to help her directly. Thanks too to another well-known member (sorry...

Hello?? Call my name??? Sorry folks, working on a ladder outside all day, just got a (teabreak) chance to scan emails now. Will act on AES's emails later, probably 8pm or worse; job now at a critical.point, so have to keep going. Sam

PM contact details sent.

I'll give it a rattle Lindas, being quite sure that if I get it wrong, there are plenty of willing contributors to promptly correct me/us. This is a friendly place, with education and guidance 'taken as read' by most posters. Sam

Yes, and I would be interested in same. Hand saws still need need sharpening, despite the 'throwaway culture' pushed by induction hardpoint manufacturers. Sam

Some authorities recommend a fence face goes no further than the front tooth meeting the wood. Their reasoning seems to be that, beyond the first tooth, the wood has a cut/kerf, and is free to allow released stresses to bend the wood 'outwards' toward the fence. This would 'expand' the original...

Dw 733's rule! Sturdy, accurate, long lasting...NOISY!! Sam