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I would definitely say you need to use the truing tool in that instance. First grind on a brand new (likely off square) plane ought to take no longer than 5 mins. Re grinds 2 mins. But it needs to have a clean stone to function. It’s like using sandpaper that’s gummed up and useless, or lost...

Tormeks wheels need to be cared for and maintained. Always drop or empty the water reservoir, and both add a magnet stuck into it to catch most of the slurry, and periodically clean it out properly. This prevents gunk building up, which when it covers the wheel makes it grind incredibly slowly...

Take as old as time re the walls being out, finish plasterer might blame the boarding out if they didn’t do it, who might blame the 1st fix carpenter etc. time is money, with the best will in the world the plasterboard is likely to get screwed or dabbed onto whatever the wall is beind it. New or...

Mdf will give you a sturdier construction. Mfc usually comes in very large board sizes that are very awkward to handle (2800x2070 or similar) and is very heavy, and also a lot of panel saws aren’t capable of processing it. Just something to think about. For private or personal jobs I would...

You can also get this rubber strip that you can cram into gaps, comes in various thicknesses and has a weird little applicator tool. I didn’t use it, but a pal did and said it was great. my floor was getting painted so I went down the pine spline and bit of caulk route. Rubber strips -...

Obviously it shouldn’t be the case in an ideal world, but you have to accept that often homeowners and a few days work here and there don’t represent the largest client, and bread and butter

I work full time employed (cabinetmaker) and do private tradie style work on evenings and weekends, 2nd fix stuff and a bit of fitted furniture etc generally direct to public. Having had experience in my previous life of dealing with and selling/project management to businesses, I can offer...

If you do a butt joint you definitely don’t want to glue it, thinking about the directions of seasonal timber movement. In that instance the dominoes if they are what you are using would also want to be dry, and at least one side on loose setting. You could (for example) glue the back or the...

If I was making it I would be looking at incorporating a front rail (or mid/front ?) of some variety. Possibly it would be annoying but it will last.. and I’m sure there is some way to design around it. If not an option two bits of 24mm birch with large floating tenons and worktop joiner bolts...

Blum for concealed hinges, grass for under mount runners, hettich or sugatsune for anything funky would be my recommendation

Also if you are using the standard auger bits with the screw thread as the Brad point - the higher speed probably isn’t allowing the screw to bite into the wood and pull the rest of the drill into the cut ? The threaded bit at higher speed is likely acting more like a drill, and not biting.

I would be suprised if you can get much better than that from it. Sounds like it’s less than .1 of a mm.. there’s probably that much play or flex in a fairly lightweight setup like that. Much better (if it’s important) would be to revise the order of processes, so the issue is avoided. My...

Have you tried making a removable bed extension for it ? Out of something fairly sturdy, 18mm birch or similar (or phenolic or melamine faced ply for extra slippage) I always think lunchbox thicknessers are going to struggle. Even bigger industrial machines like to grab and lift the work, and...

I suppose it all depends really on how accurate the width and location of the slot needs to be. And what timber you are using for the bearers, and how accurate and true it is.. if it’s 5m stuff from the merchants - a router table might actually be worse. If the timber is a big banana, you might...

One thing that will really speed this kind of work along will be getting the right router bit.. either a 2 flute with replaceable knifes or a spiral upcut, or the slot cutter someone else has put above. Ideally you want to cut to the correct width in one pass.. depends how tight and “fitted”...

Yeah I considered just a copy lathe too, but surely it would be a bit savage given the oval shape ? I suppose if you had access to the router version, you cut take gentler hits and many passes.. but my guess is that the follower wouldn’t be able to cope with the quick radius change ? I.e. they...

Hello all - How to make tapered oval legs, repeatably on a machine and very safely. It’s to be done in a college environment, and the project is to design a batch of furniture, and make one. Of course if only making one I would advise hand tooling them, but the whole point of their project is...

Yeah I’ve got the Makita. It’s great, does everything asked of it. Doesn’t rinse batteries, obviously can’t rush it, but probably shouldn’t be anyway even with a 13amp one. I’ve used all sorts, everything feels less balanced and cheaper than the lamello and offerings, but of course that’s...

In my experience osmo raw looks great, but offers very little protection from water marks. It doesn’t seem to build a hard skin like osmo top oil or the normal osmo. But then again it’s very Matt and pretty clear. If they are concerned about darkening the oak, or oranging I would do some...

Lovely stuff thanks chaps. Seems a very sensible investment