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I’d love a new saw but I haven’t got any money for a better saw. And I haven’t got any space for a bigger saw. But recommendations are welcome in case I win the lottery (which I don’t play). I like the idea of the sliding table though. It is heavy cast iron. It’s generally very well made. It’s...

I’m healthily scared to death of the thing. I use it in full body armour. Any blade recommendations anybody?

See diagram, two “mating” plane profiles. I’m doing the top (upside down) one. I want to make a right angle “Z” cut at 20 degrees offset - see the red arrows. Then the detailed part of the moulding gets put on by hand tools. Lots of moulding plane soles start with this (or similar) Z profiles...

That’s really interesting because that’s how it is. I’ll take a picture tomorrow. I added the “extension” because I’m using it for profiling the soles of moulding planes. I need to run it absolutely cleanly over the blade, there is literally no margin for error, so it needs to run along the...

I think actually I have or can fix that - I had it apart this evening and it’s a result of play in the rod that raises and lowers the trunnion mechanism. What it doesn’t have though is a lock on that mechanism like some newer machines. One thing it does have is a thumb screw micro-adjust...

Evening Hoping for some advice on table sawing. My table saw was the second machine tool I bought for my workshop. The first was an Evolution mitre saw, which was ok (died eventually) but I could tell had nothing like the accuracy or robustness I thought I’d need in a table saw, so wanting...

If you want any advice on restoring it then I’m sure plenty will be forthcoming 😎 As Andy says the wedge looks a bit strange but it clearly isn’t set, from the wear markings on it. It’s probably the original wedge as it matches the skew on the mortise. A small gap at the top at the front...

On the record plane, is the sole somehow horribly out of flat? That would cause the digging in shown in the pic as the nose of the plane leaves the board. Retract the blade and put a straight edge on it and take a look. On Faithfull, very mixed experience, I have a reasonable shoulder plane...

Looks like they’d stopped making that model by 1933 (cat page below). It’s a very fancy sash filister, and probably would have been very expensive to make. The dovetailed boxing, the fancy tote, and the screw arm adjustment make it top of the range. If you restore it very carefully you’ll have...

How the heck do you make that?!

Yes, to the extent that I heat them with a MAPP torch, oil quench and temper them. Heat treating moulding plane blades is pretty easy because the area requiring hardening is small. It’s a subject I wish I knew more about, one day I’m sure I’ll end up spending some money on it.

Prototypes for a pair of sash moulders, based on a pair of Griffiths planes, in pine to avoid wasting expensive beech blanks. …. I do believe it might actually have worked. The #1 planes (left) have the ovolo very slightly wider and very slightly shallower than the #2 planes (right). The...

Not so much something I’ve made, rather something that came in the post today…. Some fractional stamps. Isn’t that cool? 😎 a bit small, but I am definitely liking them.

A planer is faster than a plane, but a honing guide is *much* slower than freehand. I used to use a honing guide, got fed up with blades falling out, being too wide/narrow, tightening them up, adjusting them etc. but for a long time I fought with them before eventually getting bored and giving...

Love that old handwriting style. Taught in classrooms with sash windows and sloping desks with ink wells. In my career, I have spent a lot of time working in India. The interesting thing is, they are still taught to write English in that cursive Victorian style.

I reckon that there is not much connection between skew on the breast and bed of the mortise. If it’s on the bed of the mortise, it’s a skewed blade, and we all know what that’s for - cross grain etc. If it’s on the breast of the mortise it’s probably as I described earlier, to help the wedge...

Again, really interesting. So, the “technical innovation” that seems to have occurred is this…. And if you have a collection I’d be really interested to know how it fits with those you have. I don’t have a “collection” so much as a load of planes I’ve acquired one way or another, so I am not...

Interesting, isn’t it. Here are a couple …. Griffiths sash moulder, skew front, flat bed, square finial. You can see the finial has been cut to just miss the skew. Tyzack skew rabbet, slightly skewed finial. But neither finial is the round style. Basically, anything to avoid doing what I...

No, I didn’t know, and it’s only a theory, but it’s one of those Sherlock Holmes things where the facts line up and it can’t really be anything else. I guess I posted it here because I’m sat on my own in the shed playing with this stuff, and my wife is not interested, to put it mildly...

This week’s genius device was a 15 degree wedge, for use with the pillar drill and a forstner bit for making the initial hole in a skew rabbet plane. I realised I needed it when I ruined a nice piece of beech by forgetting that the hole needed to be aligned with the skew of the bed, putting the...