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Hi I have Larry’s video and I am generally using the dimensions and techniques he demonstrates. Great and very useful video. Yes, the idea was to get it close using hand tools and use the metal radius sanding blocks i would make on the lathe just for finishing. I am ok with the irons. I have...

Actually the mortises were really hard at first, I went through quite A few before I got the hang of it. Still not perfect but getting there.

Well I’m sure you are way more experienced than me (total novice) but knowing me I will mess it up. I suppose the only way to learn is to try. Perhaps I should practice extensively before I go for it. Making the accurate marks is ok, I will have circle templates etc. What process would you use...

i like the idea of the jig, but one would have to make sure the distance from the sander belt was very accurate and consistent. I realised that I can bore extremely accurate holes on my metal lathe, +/- .001”. So I could bore out a hole in a rod say 1” minus the thickness of the sandpaper, then...

The problem is, I want to get it right first time and be dead accurate.

Morning …. My set of H&Rs is coming on, now 1/4 of the way there with the basics, every one I do gets quicker and better. But I need to form the soles accurately and there’s a reasonable chance I will get it wrong and ruin them. Obviously I only need to do the rounds. I’m thinking of planing...

Well, I spotted a spindle blank supplier on eBay whose description said they can provide bespoke sizes to order, sent them a quick email and yes they can do 4x3x11 with the grain in the right direction for £10.50 inc postage! Result. After all the searching. Moulding planes here we come. Lets...

Hi I‘m not talking about wood turning gouges here, just typical woodworking gouges. I’d like to make a sash gouge to an accurate dimension. Is the “sweep” of the gouge the same numbering as moulding planes? Eg based on 60deg of a circle in 16ths? I guess its defined by the outside dimension...

Hi Does anyone know where I can get some quartersawn beech for planemaking? I’ve hunted high and low, can’t find any. Suggestions gratefully received Steve

What’s the actual runout at the collet? is everything absolutely clean? are there any burrs etc that can easily be taken off?

From British planemakers from 1700 by WL Goodman “Careful observers will note that on a proportion of planes, including many beads, the front of the wedge is bevelled back towards the right. The angle is small, about 10, the bed at the back being cut square. This gives more area for the wedge...

There’s my answer I think.

Here’s some more pics, this time of a Nurse sash ovolo. 1) Parallelogram shape of the mortise. 2) Skew of the wedge shown on a flat surface 3) wedge the other way up 4) tang being held to the face side of the mortise by the skew 5) mouth which doesn’t look skewed to me!

Ian I have a small amount of experience with moulding planes, having made a few picture frames and no end of window bits. I have about 50 perhaps that I’ve collected, and I have sharpened and “tuned” quite a few of them. The back story is that I have a Victorian house which had awful plastic...

So I have. It’s the same when the wedge is reversed (I.e. the right way around)

see pic, what the wedge skew actually does is push the tang against the side of the mortice, thus holding it in place and reducing chatter. That’s my theory anyway. It’s not a skewed iron.

Interesting. I actually made a few floats in preparation for doing this (see pic showing off my lovely floats) but no skewed ones yet. Or indeed pull floats. I’m not averse to making whatever is needed to make it work. Perhaps a straightforward one is the best place to start with a 90 deg iron.

Hi i’m determined to learn to make moulding planes. I’ve got quite a few of them, but they’re all at least 100 years old, and generally knackered, can’t get matching ones, broken bits etc. so I’ve been reading and watching everything I can get my hands on, most recently Larry Williams’ video on...

In what proportions? 😎

Ok, so here are 3 of mine. The one on the left - beech. The other two - stained beech, right? What sort of stain was used?