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I’m sure you are correct, but it’s strange that the tool manufacturers are quite so specific about the size of the stock for the bar. There’s nothing about the sash moulding plane or template that says the bar should be 1.5 inches…. or so I thought …. In fact, the “B” section of the template is...

Hi I am doing some research to discover the dimensions of historical sash window bars. I thought perhaps there might be an old joiner about who has repaired original windows and knows. In particular, I wondered if there was a standard size for the glazing rebate. I have scoured all the old...

Demo

Well some kind of fishing thing maybe.

Still for sale?

Or a paternoster beam for sea fishing?

Realistically it probably isn’t part of a fly press. As you say, perhaps for twisting rope or cable though.

I can’t see the picture here in the wilds of the highland, but from the description it sounds like part of a fly press. edit … pic now appeared, probably not but might be something like that.

I made up some sash bars with a lump of cedar I‘d forgotten I had lying around today. The moulding was lovely to do, on account of no knots and the wood being so soft. The mortising was more tricky, as the wood bruises easily, and I need more practice doing it. Never mind, all experiments and...

Good idea, I have a whole shelf of imperial MT drills and reamers for my metal lathe. Interesting to drill the hole first. Again, I’m used to a metal lathe. That’s something you wouldn’t usually do, you‘d end up with a hole that isn’t straight - but at .000” dimensions, which isn’t an issue...

It’s a Record DML24x

Hi Mission statement: at this time I am not likely to be turning bowls. What I actually want to do, is drilling. I want to be able to turn a ”chisel” handle (in fact for a clamp) and then drill a 3/4” inch hole accurately in the end. I know I can probably do this on my pillar drill but a 3/4”...

I made another one today, this time I used (kitchen) vegetable oil as a lubricant, as I’d run out of BLO. I soaked it for a couple of hours. The thread cut without any messing about and is pretty much perfect. In fact I’m now thinking that kitchen oil is better than BLO! However, one problem. I...

I have looked at Accoya and I’m sure it’s great but very expensive. I am thinking Larch or Douglas Fir. Any thoughts anyone? Is there a certain grade I should be going for? Thanks

There we go, not perfect but ok for a first try. I didn’t have the patience or enough oil to soak them so I used the oil as a lubricant while cutting the threads.

Well, I turned a little beech dowel, and it threaded perfectly. When the die got to an area that hadn’t been soaked in BLO, it started tearing a tiny amount. But otherwise, it was the rubbish Wickes “hardwood” dowel that was the problem. I used the tap as well and that was easy. New clamps...

I’m going to turn a beech dowel today and try it with wood I definitely know is beech!

Tried soaking overnight… and cutting a quarter turn, then backing off. That produced the “thread“ in the pic above.

I assumed that it’s a beech dowel, I think that’s what they are made of. But good point, it may not be. I will check it out. edit - Wickes website says “light hardwood” whatever that means!

Hi I‘m about to start a casement window build, using hand tools. I’m trying to decide what wood to use, initially it’s a single glazed window for a garden shed. Nice straight grain would be nice so the moulding plane performs nicely. Any thoughts appreciated. Steve