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That looks very cool. Never used freecad,, but I guess the idea is to 3d print is and cast that. I’m going to get back to casting fairly soon, wouldn’t mind a go at it. Brass or bronze might be a better bet - I’ve found cast iron difficult to do as getting my furnace hot enough is tricky, I’ve...

Cutting curves Template?

I am liking this rod thing. Not only can I transfer the dimensions to the work, but whenever I have any questions about what I should be doing, or whether a dimension is right, I just place the work on the rod and it answers it for me. I’ve done the sill now, on with the jambs and head tomorrow.

Here we go, a second use for my MDF shelf, joiner’s rod AND engineering flat surface for jointing my jointer plane, which had developed a significant bow. Already paid for itself. Every workshop needs a Wickes MDF shelf. Essential tool.

The casement windows that were made for my house are nice enough but look too modern for my liking, despite me trying to get them to use a traditional design. The jambs and mullions are too skinny, the bars too chunky, the mouldings are unrefined. They look like they were made by machine...

You are right. The whole topic of the dimensions of the frame is something I don’t really understand. The book actually recommended 4x3 1/2 or something like that, I didn’t want to spend the money on the wood, since it’s just a learning exercise, so I think I halved the thickness of the jambs...

Nah I’ll just bang it it with a hammer and chop bits off if need be. That’s how my previous builder did it. Seriously, I probably won’t install it as the hole it’s sized to fit already has a functional window in it. I just want to learn the process. The one I need to eventually replace is the...

Casement. Just a prototype, trying to learn the process.

I thought I’d draw up and build the frame before moving onto the sashes, then I’ll add the sashes to the rod (when my different colour pens come from eBay!). Now done a width rod as well on the other side of the board. Ok, they are there on the edge of the board. That’s where I started...

Ok, done that bit. Now I need a really powerful X-ray to transfer it to the wood.

The Cassell’s carpentry book is American, from 1907 and had a huge chapter on Joiners Rods, and they are the way Jacob describes. Who knows about all this stuff, much of the old literature I’ve read recently calls Rebates or Rabbets…. “Rabates”!! We can have an argument about that now.

As I said, as an inexperienced person trying to do this for the first time using the story stick method, based on following the detailed instructions in a book from 1910, I made a right pigs ear of it. Now I have my MDF shelf I can transfer my height drawing to I and do a width drawing also...

I’m pretty sure that if my full time job every day was making windows to a standard design, and I knew the design backwards, then a stick brought back from site could be quickly marked up and it would be no problem to set out the work. There would be no need for the bother of the “rod”. But...

Design is from the 1910 book, apparently the author had been a joiner for 30 years so I guess it’s 1800s. it’s a bit weird with moulding around the inside of the frame, except for the inside sill which has a chamfer. Around the outside it has chamfered arrises too. I’ll probably use a different...

This evening getting on with my project, I think I learnt the “rods vs story sticks” lesson. I‘d been working from the “window making and door making” book which took a story stick approach, basically saying measure the window space with the stick and then set out marks P Q Z X T Y V W1 W2 X...

I am trying to work out what these trad methods are because I think there’s value in them, historically and culturally, and I think they produce a more refined and more beautiful result. There’s a whole world of incredible joinery & craftsmanship under people’s noses in old houses and buildings...

I’ve come across several examples of sash bar joints like this: To me this looks like a joint that was made with a combination of a template and a sash coping gouge with a depth stop. It may not have been commonly done, being a “better” joint than the traditional mating method of sash bars...

I’m just interested in the specifics of how these tools worked and were used to improve the productivity of the joiners, making windows back in the day. Of course, the job can be done with a standard gouge, or coping, saw or whatever. The sash coping chisels had a depth stop on them, I’m...

Out of interest, does anyone own a sash coping gouge?

I think you hit the nail on the head, it’s a rule of thirds. The central section (I called B) *is* the mortise and tenon position on the bar. I made a comment earlier that for a 2 1/2“ bar the glazing rebate wouldn’t have been 1/3 of that. I take it back. Thinking of a shop window I was looking...