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A practical window question…. I have completed my frame now (at last) and I’ll start on the sash tomorrow morning. I will have to do some haunched m&t joints, obviously, The question is, how does one actually cut the haunch directly next to the tenon? Can’t get a saw in there, can’t get a...

Plane setting hammer

What’s wrong with lead? Easy to work, stays in place, not too expensive, lasts a hundred years or more. I have to admit I’ve only done it once (flashed a chimney stack I built) but I liked it.

I had it, made a table, mounted it with the kreg plate. Seemed pretty good. The winder for the up/down mechanism was flimsy I remember. Sold it in the end because I decided I preferred hand tools and like having fingers. But if I wanted a router for a table I’d get it again.

These planes were sold as an ovolo matched pair, with a pair of templates thrown in as part of a package. I am certain that if they wanted a different profile, they would’ve brought a set a Planes for the different profile. But by all means, give it a try!

If I understand what you are saying, I don’t think so. Both planes had the width of the glazing bar stamped on them, indicating that’s what they were for. Also, both have 2 depth stops, designed for use with a flat sticking board for producing a perfectly proportioned glazing bar every time...

On the subject of sash planes, I‘ve been looking into this a lot, having an interest in plane making. On the cover of Richard Nelson’s sash plane booklet you can see the extra scribe marks on the #2 planes which show the difference in the moulding depth. In practice it all makes a lot of sense...

I am sure you are right. I think the question I’m interested to answer is that when you read these old texts or look at these old tools, when are they talking about finished sizes, and when are they talking about unfinished sizes? See below, my Charles Nurse sash template, clearly says 5/8, 1...

This thread has diverged somewhat from my original question about sash bar sizes, but I actually found the answer last night in Ellis… Interestingly, elsewhere in the text, Mr Ellis says that a 1 1/2 in sash bar is actually 1 3/8 ” finished. So none of this really tallies with my 1 1/2” deep...

I’ve actually done pretty much exactly what the book said, but I drew up the rod after failing with the story sticks. The reason is I was struggling to interpret the text, which is very “Victorian” … the author may have been a great joiner, but a terrible communicator and it is full of...

That’s the book except mine doesn’t have the stair making section.

Yes, but I took the measurements from a real window on my shed, thinking I might possibly install it. The existing windows aren’t high quality or attractive. But they are 1) Hardwood 2) stormproof 3) slimline double closed 4) draughtproof so me installing mine just “because I made it” doesn’t...

Ok, time to take a break. I realised I put the sash rebate and moulding on the wrong side of one of the jambs. So in effect I have 2 right jambs. It was going so well. Something had to go wrong.

Yes, made perfect sense thanks, if I cut the rebate for the sash, most of my marks will disappear, would not be very helpful!

Ok, thanks, that’s what I’ll do then.

Ok, all set out for my jambs now. Cutting tenons before sticking mouldings seems to be the approved way. But what about the rebate on the jambs for the sash? should I do that before cutting the tenons?

Its “Door-making and Window Making” by Anon, circa 1910. The reason I chose it was that it had a step by step method, which for an inexperienced weekend hobbyist like me, trying to make his first window, seemed like it might help me get to the goal. The other texts, Ellis, Cassell’s etc don’t...

Its what my book says though. What else should I do, given that the mortises are of the “open“ type?

A question about my window frame… I’ve read that draw boring is the way to fix the pieces together. Before I start drilling holes, do people agree?

He has an interesting technique, seems like he keeps his eye directly above the cutter, probably using the ball on the end of the cutter to keep it vertical.