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Yes, I have some free time today so I’m going to do one more attempt at a practice joint, then presuming that goes ok I will get on and make the sash.

The template, as shown in my picture above , is used to mark up the scribe on the rail. It fits over the moulding and allows a scribe at 90deg to be created accurately. I imagine that the brass ended templates, such as mine above, could be used to actually make the scribing cut, rather than just...

These newfangled tools from around 1850, they’ll never catch on.

Oh I see! (The pic) Perfect, thanks.

Luckily these joints I’m doing are on some stock a few inches long, to learn the joint before trying it on the actual stiles that I have planed up to make the sash. Ive re-read the section of the book which covers mitering the rails, and yes I got it wrong. But now I understand how the sash...

I have, but it seems incredulous that all the books show it and clearly many around here were taught it and use it. So I can’t help thinking I must be doing something wrong, but it’s very difficult to see what that might be. It’s so weak that even if I hadn’t popped that bit off by mistake with...

Hi mp, thanks for the advice. I must be doing something wrong then. I just tried to cut my very first franked joint. I was working on the stile, I did the mortise. It seemed the next thing to do was to create the glazing rebate with the sash filister and the moulding. Then all I need to do is to...

Well, it’s back to work on my (first ever) window today. I may try both haunched and franked to see which I prefer. Structurally speaking they are the same. I have a few clarifications (no doubt to raise more controversy!) See below a picture of a casement sash. Have I got the following right...

I think I worked out why the franked tenon joint is popular for sash construction: it’s easier and less work than a standard haunched tenon. The reason being you already have the “square“ of the moulding on the mortise part. This gives a pokey-up bit that may as well be used as a haunch, else...

Mints, Crowns, hand tools, anything Imperial, belongs in my workshop.

Happy to dispose of any imperial ones no one wants, my workshop is imperial only.

It’s true that there don’t seem to be so many around today. I have 2, one that I bought knowing what it was and another that I found in a job lot I purchased years ago. I’d guess that for standard ovolos it was traditionally done with a gouge and a couple of saw cuts. It could be that it was...

Nurse catalogue.. There’s the lambs tongue and ovolo with scribing planes. Not obviously one for sale to match the quirk ogee, but it says somewhere else that they’ll make any plane you want in 24 hrs if they have a mother plane and 48 if they don’t.

Yes, I have one and I used it on the frame of the window I’m making. Unfortunately it doesn’t quite match the ovolo planes I have, but i wanted to try it. It took seconds to cut the scribe. All I had to do was clamp a bit of scrap on to prevent breakout. For a fiddly quirk moulding, to get it...

That scribe would likely have been done with a sash scribing plane. Looks far too old for machining.

I spent some time the other day trying to make an inverse-ovolo moulding piece so I could clamp it to my right jamb so as not to wreck the joint with breakout. Notes made!

As Jacob pointed out the picture I shared above was actually a “franked” tenon. t has a “negative haunch”. All of the joinery books circa 1900 show this as the main joint for window sashes. I was asking if there was a method to cutting it as it wasn’t immediately obviously to me.

A wooden rod. One disadvantage I’m finding of MDF is it is hard and slippery and doesn’t like dividers etc.

Thanks!

Ah I see… the standard form of the haunched joint having the “haunch” sticking out part adjacent to the tenon. By the way, what clearance gap would you suggest between the sash and the frame? I’m actually just drawing it up now.