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Below some notes I made. Any thoughts or comments very welcome, I want the next one to be of a standard it could actually be installed and used! Although I think I’ll make a couple of planes, then have a go at a box sash before doing another casement.

There we go, frame draw-bored, sash wedged and trimmed, just wedged in place for now - no idea how the hinges are supposed to work in this design. But it’s definitely a window! Massive thanks to everyone who helped me, I have learnt so much. I made tons of mistakes that I won’t make next time...

Oh go on say it 😉 I think you’re right, I divided the total height of the sash in 2 rather that the opening for the glass. Learning point #2427.

At last my sash is done. Loads of little problems with it, gaps here and there etc. but nothing filler can’t fix and it won’t happen next time. I just need to trim/wedge/glue etc now. One embarrassing problem… the top two panes are 2” taller than the bottom 2 panes! I have no idea how that...

Hi In the past I enjoyed some YouTube videos by a chap called Jed Dixon, who explains profiles of stair balusters, what’s right and what’s wrong, and then goes on to demonstrate how he turns the most beautiful balusters. Shame he didn’t do more instructional videos. Baluster design But the...

This is a bit of a conundrum really as once your moulding and glazing rebate are done, your corner lines for hand cutting with a tenon saw are gone too. There’s no ideal way to do it.

No, it’s Ellis, I’m liking that one these days.

That would be great

Apparently…

Endless fun here marking up my new rails correctly from my rod. Whilst once this was obviously the way it was done in the trade, I do think it’s a more or less ideal method for a hobby woodworker to get beyond dovetail boxes and occasional tables that nobody really wants. Particularly good where...

Fabulous. Are you going to demonstrate making a sash pocket with it? After I finish my long-running casement I will have a go at a box sash, the mount of page-space in the old books on cutting pockets is significant.

For me it’s been extremely useful actually. These joints and how the whole thing fits together is simple in principle, but in detail and in practice it is much harder. I think it’s partly my inexperience in using the rod. For example, I got both rails wrong. Had i carefully laid the first rail...

I think the design is ok but I’ve interpreted it wrongly on the wood. “tenon shoulder usually same line as glazing and moulding rebate depth” that’s specifically what I got wrong. I even drew a little arrow on the rod to make sure I got it right!

By the way I’ve have a lot of success marking the coping lines on the bars with those templates I have, then coping with a coping saw. That part worked really well 😎

I did try to do that. But I think that’s where the problem might lie. There is a line on the rod for the tenon shoulder and a line for the glazing rebate. What I am struggling with is using the correct one for the tenon shoulder. I think I need to perhaps only transfer the tenon shoulder line to...

Saturday morning, just the 2 little vertical bars to cope, then I can finish it all off. But something looks wrong… the horizontal bar seems too long. laying the rails on the rod, I have somehow got them the wrong length :cry: It’s pretty hard to pick the correct line from the rod to be the...

That particular plane was based on one in the plane making booklet be W J Armour (pretty much the only historical text on plane making) where it shows a plane used for making sash templates. I copied it - kind of - I actually made a rabbet plane and profiled it to the shape of a template-making...

Well, I got my head around the franked joint at last. It’s not very good but it seems structurally correct. Now to lay out my sash bits and cut 4 of them.

Aha I see - yes I’ve seen a video somewhere on YouTube where a similar board is used. Basically a sticking board but gives full support to the bar once one side has been planed .

Johnny , that’s really interesting, thanks for that. The mitering prior to the scribe is shown in the “door and window making” book. One of those little mitre blocks you show in the pic are used. That “reverse profile of a sash bar” profile is almost impossible to execute without a specialised...