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Being as it was fitted 6 years ago, and presumably that was replacing an old window, the new one probably slotted fairly tightly into the opening from outside , so it should be an easy removal. If it were properly built in, it'd take a bit more work to free it, but this should be an easy one.

To be honest it seems like a bodge.... but in the vein of bodging, as you suggested, you could bed the glass in the existing rebate and in effect fit a face frame over the outside of it, with glazing silicone to bed it in, which would easily take up your 2mm discrepancy I'd have that frame out...

Here you go @MikeK https://www.dm-tools.co.uk/Holzmann-FS200S-240V-4-Speed-Tilting-Spindle-Moulder/P18555/froogle?gclid=CjwKCAiAuOieBhAIEiwAgjCvcpddETtxAb08N57fQDCJQi0AUqd-PYiwBEum1Ljscwx8I9tghVzDlBoC0CYQAvD_BwE 🤣😂 another boat anchor for you

You can just type @baldkev and it'll notify me. Thats great, youve got experience. Maybe just list your available kit and an idea of finished look so we can judge door construction etc. Ive only fitted 3 or 4 sliders but they were all dead simple and theres a ton of youtube vids on prettymuch...

Im glad you shared, we all get to learn a bit along the way from reading these sort of project threads and they give inspiration to future readers too. You clearly have a lot of skill and patience and you should be incredibly proud of your efforts. Just imagine what it might cost to commission...

After much deliberation, i think i have the answer to the o.p's question..... Jacobs chisel! 😆🤣

Hopefully the insurance companies arent trawling diy forums 😆 But yes, inserts are important. You can also measure, say, 30mm from the end if the pipe, make a mark ( pencil, not knife 😀 ) and that way you know how far onto the pipe the fitting went ( with insert in place ) 👍

After a lot of research, i refinished a wooden worktop, with built in drainage grooves, in tongue oil. I cant say how it's surviving because I havent been back to the house since, but that was 5 or 6 years ago.... no complaints. The original oil finish had long gone and the drainer area was...

Maybe an opportunity to give black tinted epoxy a go? A couple of test pieces would be a good experiment 🙂

How much do you want to do yourself? And what kit / experience do you have? I ask because howdens ( and others ) sell the components. I.e, if you didnt have much kit and wanted to get it done quite painlessly, you could go buy 450 deep cupboards, a set of doors and a slider setup from them...

A keen price? Was it mikes? 😆

I tend to board the walls, butt a tray up to it and silicone the joint, then tile over and silicone again.... Not everyone likes them, but ive done a couple of bathrooms with shower panels / bathroom wallboards. Ive used multipanel and was happy enough. Its quick and easy

I'll give you a tenner 😆

I have a good one for buying regrets..... Last april i bought a petrol dumper, hydraulic tip, tracked, 500kg capacity. I bought it because I had a sum of money in the job for machine hire and decided to buy one rather than hire. 2 or 3 good sized jobs and it's paid for. It cost £2100, was...

Well here we go, actually, i do have a 'cheap tool' experience that would be a good fit in the buying regrets thread! Last april i bought a petrol dumper, hydraulic tip, tracked, 500kg capacity. I bought it because I had a sum of money in the job for machine hire and decided to buy one rather...

Aghh, beat me to it 🤣

Interestingly i was a non believer and STILL havent got one.... even though now I'm open to it, i was dithering between makita and festool, but theres always more important tools to buy. Plus prices have gone up 🤣 The new mafell looks a smart bit of kit, but at £2500 it'd have to make me cups...

Im unconvinced. For 95% of jobs, a tracksaw would be fine. If you were doing something special, youd use a new blade and can run a scoring cut. For a site tool, it doesnt look like something youd want to use all day.... And if you did a lot of mfc , you'd probably have a workshop with panel saw...

Being as plunge saws are basically circular saws, yes it does cut upwards. If it cut downwards, the blade would often be forcing the saw to jump

🤣 Ive got a Sharpening guide ( still brand new in its packet ) and I dont even know why i bought it..... I could already make an edge cut well 😐 Its the roller type🤷‍♂️