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I'd probably go for the 37.5mm too. Theres a diminishing return when you go up in thickness, so from 2" to 4" does not double the thermal efficiency..... in fact it's not a big gap at all..... theres instafix board foam which is great, or as suggested above, dot n dab..... but one thing to be...

Grant do a system where you fit pipes into a board with the pipe grooves, then cover with thin ply. Ive recently had a Grant low pro ufh system fitted on a house I'm doing for a customer. We had glendinnings excelio pumped in ( flow screed ) Their tech department are very helpful and will...

Interestingly rutlands latest email has an adjustable sharpening rest for 30 quid...

I'd be thinking they are just helping to stabilise, not to close anything, so I'd put 2 in 100mm in from the end and 200mm in, then just tighten up and add a bit more pressure. If o.p wanted, he could epoxy fill first, then route and fit clamps leaving them accessible in the future. Of course...

No, about 15 quid on ebay, new, fully packaged. If i had paid more than that I'd have posted it to irwin with a colourful covering letter. I wanted a spare block plane for bashing on site. Ive got a 15ish year old stanley ( after my original block plane dissapeard ) and an older stanley 60.5 I...

Or get a bosch, put a lightbulb fitting in the chuck of the wolf and turn it into a lamp 😆 On a serious note, if you really want to fix it, buy another on ebay for the parts......

👋 me, me, ask me! 😆 like being back at school How about kitchen worktop clamps set in underneath?? They can end up roughly central in the slab

Me too, i havent tried ebonizing. I did try to make rusty solution to add to the oak ( white vinegar and steel wool ) but it didnt work, the wool didnt break down 🤣

I bought an irwin record block plane a couple of years ago. Rubbish quality. Blade ground out of square, mouth of plane casting out of square, blade locating holes off centre and the area of casting the blade rests on was slightly tilted ( from memory it was 2 lugs, 1 needed filing down ) In...

🙃 it happens The other day i was cutting ply sheets for a floor, using an old level under one edge to pull the ply off the floor a bit and as i neared the end of the cut the sawdust got a bit shiny.... and the level has a clean saw cut in one edge 😆

I guess if the clamping setup is good, its probably fine, you just wouldnt wanna put your pinkies near it, or operate it at waist height just in case it caught your trousers 😉

Here's another thought..... could you make a wider former, say 2" wider, clamp the middle up tight as, put screws down from female to male ( on the outside of the workpiece each side ) then clamp the next section either side of centre, screw, etc until you use all the clamps, then take off...

What do you have available? G clamps, sash clamps, even ratchet straps might help..... Or are there any members nearby? 🤔

Never used one but i understand they are a bit vicious 🙂

As in your former is too tight a radius? Thatd be good because you usually get some springback

I haven't tried this, but from what i understand, you could do a dry run with your former and put a pencil line across the sections to get a visual that it lines up while clamping. One of the members here ( dr bob i think ) said he pencil lines his timber before cutting the strips, which...

Old thread, but most of mine is battery, light, easy to take up a ladder / roof etc and no regular pat testing required ( site use ) I had 3 x 3ah makita batteries that lasted around 10 years, i now have lots of 5ah and expect similar lifespans. I used makita and dewalt cordless

Im not familiar with that saw or the 'flanges' but i think those tyres could need replacing. Once the thickness of the tyres has worn, the machine will struggle to tension. A kity i had needed new tyres. I bought a pair for the machine but it wouldnt work, kept slipping off. 2 members here...

I recommend you find @Blackswanwood insta, he makes amazing boxes

I love that gate, great idea 💡🙃