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Exactly how I was taught in school and technical college, it’s a shame they don’t teach it anymore.

That's where the Joiner's skill comes in, being able to hang those doors and make the frames look like there's nothing wrong with them.

I'd scribe the internal corners like you do on skirting otherwise once that cornice moves those mitres will just open up and leave a big gap.

That’s lovely, nice shadow gaps.

The problem seems to be that there’s a bare faced tenon on those two curved pieces, so water’s got a place to sit and also seep through to the mullion’s tenon. if you were to redesign that joint incorporating two shoulders and a better designed transom it would be a lot better. Is the transom...

That’s a nice set of machines, hope you get your price.

I’ve a Record No5 StaySet I purchased around twenty five years ago in a vintage rally that has one of those laminated blades, it’s a great plane.

As an apprentice it was frowned upon to use a jig, hand hold only, and so it continued for around ten years, rounded bevel, re grinding, rounded bevel and so on, then I started using a honing jig, voila, no more rounded bevel and I’ve never gone back.

They’re really easy to sharpen, just a few pulls on a knife sharpener would do, no need to sharpening each gullet individually.

You can buy an extended yoke from Ray Isles to counter this problem.

I'd avoid and spend a bit more as that drill is quite big, not brushless and bottom of the range. Spend a bit more and you'll get a newer shorter drill such as the 485.

I purchased a Rider, absolute junk and won't hold an edge, I'd avoid and buy something else.

Why don't you raise your bench and stand as working from a sitting position's extremely awkward and not very good for your body.

Just grind a flat edge on your blade and forget about cambered edges, you're making this way more complicated for yourself. If you need to take some off the left side, hold the plane more to the left and vice versa. What's with the fascination with the No4 on this forum, if you want to shoot...

This is way off topic and nothing to do with the OP's question.

There was one at school and at the technical college when I was an apprentice. If I remember correctly they're just a grinding tool and far too coarse for sharpening.

Not really what he's asking for though.

I see a lot of advise about buying Lie Nielsen planes, Narex chisels, some fancy Japanese saws from people on this forum. These are very expensive tools which you don't really need as a hobbyist, and if you spend wisely you can get a lot more your money. A second hand set of carver handled...

Only as a last resort as the bottom of the cut will be all over the place.

Ripping 60mm pine isn’t something to be done with a jigsaw, let alone 100mm