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I’ve got one I made years ago, but stole the idea from the 62 year old joiner I was working with as a 17 year old apprentice. It’s made out of a length of 4”x2” with a notch for the door to sit in. The notch’s shoulders are square one side and tapered the other. You only need one wedge with a...

Too coarse

You’d be looking at the door from the hinge side with ledges and braces showing when referring to which side a door is hung.

You want HSS-G (ground from solid bar) or Cobalt. Anything with HSS-R in the description is rolled and prone to breaking in the pilot hole sizes.

An Erbauer Random Orbit Sander from Screwfix around eight years ago. It was only supposed to be a stop gap between getting our Makita fixed but it’s outlasted that, two Flex sanders and another newer Erbauer, it’s indestructible despite being in use most days. We’ve now got a blue Bosch and...

The wood was free to you, it doesn’t mean you have to pass on that saving. Maybe not charge its retail value but what you’d have sold it on for.

I think you’re giving joiners and cabinetmakers a disservice by saying their oil stone boxes only needed to be functional. When you’re in the trade you’re judged by everything you make, big or small and those oil stone boxes were a representation of your ability. We were certainly encouraged to...

Our instructor at Technical College said those end blocks were there for blade run off, to make full use of the stone when hand sharpening. This was in 84/85 and we weren’t allowed to use jigs.

In an ideal world yes, in a busy workshop no.

I’d say the biggest diameter your extractors rated for.

In my experience if you don’t set the back bearing correctly the blade won’t cut very well. I’ll push the untightened bearing tight against the blade, start up the machine and let the blade push the bearing as far back as it can. Once the bearing stops contact and spinning I’ll stop the...

In fact, forget the blanking plate, just leave the router insert in permanently and just blank off the circular cutout when not in use.

It’s not illegal for hobbyists to use as they don’t have to comply to Health and Safety laws. It is if you’re a business/establishment in the UK, but not something I’ve ever used or seen except on Youtube and The New Yankee Workshop many years ago.

It’s not going to be strong enough with a huge hole cut out of its middle. Better to have a hole just for the router insert and a blanking plate when not used.

Just an update on what I’ve ordered. After watching a few videos on YouTube I decided to get the Hammer A3-31. One of the main reasons was the dust extraction hood and the fact it doesn’t come off and need storing somewhere in the changeover. The Sedgwick system with its placement and hold...

I’m sure the riving knife has a place to retract back up into the guard. The problem with radial arm saws are that they don’t like being moved, and can easily get out of square. We’ve one at work and I have to square it up every now and then and ours never even moves from 90 degrees.

I wouldn’t advise it, possible but dangerous. https://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis36.pdf

I like every apprentice started out with the obligatory No4, then a No4 1/2 as a lot of the joiners had them due to their increased weight. I then purchased a No5 1/2 but it was too heavy to carry with all the other tools. After a few years and knew what I was doing I progressed to a block...

I use a block plane, No5 and No7, I don’t get all the love for a No4 🤷‍♂️

Thanks for that 👍