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You could always add a spring washer to absorb the impact 😂

Once down how often do you move a bench 🤷‍♂️

One cheap idea I thought of a while at work was to put a coach bolt into each leg where it touches the ground. Drill an interference fit hole into the end grain of each leg, then knock the bolts in. This would only work if the bench was on a hard surface and would lift it off the ground...

I’m always amazed at the batshit crazy people on this Reddit and how they take sharpening to ridiculous levels. I’m not even sure if the things they sharpen are actually used, it’s all about just sharpening 🤷‍♂️ https://www.reddit.com/r/sharpening/

This method only applies to a perfect world situation, everything squared up, perfectly level, pencil marks in the correct place, saw set to the exact angle and user’s ability to follow those lines. In the real world you’d run one into the wall square on and scribe the other with a block of...

Run one into the wall and scribe the other. A mitre will be weak and prone to open up.

The clown had no riving knife or crown guard, they’re there for a reason.

16g will be stronger but if you’re also using glue 18g will be more than strong enough.

Whilst not expensive this is something that isn’t needed but is a delight to use. uni-ball 153528584 Kuru Toga High Grade Premium Edition Mechanical Pencil with Silver Barrel https://amzn.eu/d/fzEZecm Or even rOtring 600 Mechanical Pencil | 0.5 mm | Silver All-Metal Body | Non-Slip Knurled...

Do serious woodworkers use rasps, I thought it was something you used in school woodwork class.

It’s a lot of work using that Shaper Origin to do something like, there are quicker simpler ways. For other projects, especially inlays it’s incredible, I was astounded at how it worked when I saw it for the first time.

I’ve seen videos on YouTube and it’s an incredible machine, but you need a Shaper Origin for a simple job like that? You could do that with a bandsaw and bobbin sander/MDF template and 1/2” router.

The yellow and red handled ones? There was a big stigma about plastic handled chisels amongst the older guys when I was buying those. My favourites were the polished black handled Stanleys, great looking chisels!

I’ve experience of that model of 1/2 sheet sander. It creates a lot of vibration and would be off the scale with today’s HAV scores and definitely white finger’s best friend. I’d avoid for that reason alone as a numb finger isn’t nice. I’ve had a second look, it’s not a 1/2 sander 🤦‍♂️

A mallet will always be the preferred option but there are exceptions. If you’re working away from the workshop and on site, there’s a lot of hand tools you don’t really have space for in your bag, also it would be too heavy to carry around. The mallet is one and what they teach you at...

I paid £25 for a set of four Marples Shaterproof in 1984. Good tools were expensive back then and took a good while to build up your toolkit.

Search for a Registered Mortice Chisel on eBay. They’re wooden handled but have a ferrule at the striking end to keep the handle’s integrity.

18mm will be plenty strong, however it needs a back panel to keep it from racking. Another thing I’d suggest is leaving the front lip off and letting the foam sit flush with the front of the cabinet. Foam will compress and that lip will be painful under the knees.

It’s only half a mile, that’s a very short walk unless you struggle with mobility.

A track saw would give you a straight edge and depending on the blade would possibly give an edge with minimal cleanup. Another way is to run a groove with a router up to it maximum depth, cut off what’s left leaving a slight protrusion and then flush cut from the opposite side. Failing all...