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It’s to do with your knife setting skills, sounds like they’re too low in the block.

I’d just buy a 240v version as it’ll save you a lot of hassle and money. The Jet was certainly available in both voltages.

I think the ornate barge boards of old were of a heavier section than ex 8”x1”, and were probably a finished 1 1/4” thick maybe. Best way to cut them out is drill through, cut close to the line with a jigsaw then clean up with your router and template.

Surely you’ll only maintain the chisels you’ve used, they don’t need to be periodically maintained.

Sell them separately as you’ll probably get more money for them.

It’s either Teak or Iroko, more likely the latter as it was a cheaper substitute.

Give up, as I doubt you’ll be able to do that. Rip it in half, cut the necessary half channel and glue back together. Or just cut a groove the width of the T and machine infill strips to neck the groove. Why do you need to do this?

I wonder if a spoke tension meter could be adapted to measure bandsaw blades 🤔 Spokes are probably a higher tension but both spokes and bandsaw blades are in tension between two points https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tools/ztto-professional-spoke-tension-meter/

That was done by time served welders, it’ll be strong and functional, you’ll have to turn the repaired side towards the wall if you want an ornament though.

Build the frame strong enough to withstand racking and the top thick enough to withstand flexing and the apron becomes unnecessary. I’d have a clamp/cramp over the edge over a bench holdfast every time as you can put them anywhere rather than fixed positions.

Broken planes used to be repaired by brazing. The plane would be perfectly functional but you’d have a bronze coloured lined where the break happened.

That apron will only get in the way when clamping as there’s no overhang.

What you need is to pass these boards over the surfacer to get one straight flat face. Putting these boards through a thicknesser will not achieve this. That being said, scaffold boards are usually covered in ground in dirt, grit, sand, mortar and will probably destroy your edge in one pass...

He had a regular column in Furniture and Cabinetmaking magazine for years, they might be available somewhere?

Yes, I’ll admit it’s done really well and might last another ten or twenty years if looked after. I can’t describe how noisy the PT260 was, and until I’d heard the Hammer I thought it was normal for a PT. That alone was enough justification to replace the PT260.

The PT260’s junk compared to the Hammer. I don’t miss wearing hot sweaty ear defenders for up to two hours either.

Just an update on our new Planer Thicknesser at work. I definitely made the correct decision based on noise alone, it’s so quiet!!! The quality of cut is also vastly improved from the previous two knife block on the old planer. You can still see slight cutter marks if held up to the light but...

My instructor in Tech forbid us from using a honing guide, it was hand sharpen only or otherwise you’d never be taken seriously as a joiner. About ten years later I started using a honing guide and still do as it avoids that dreaded rounded bevel.

When you switch off the saw the electric brake will stay on for ten seconds, it prevents restarting till that has released. As for sawing, you should have a negative rake blade fitted to avoid snatching.

Are you in the trade?