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To add to Spectric's answer, after new spark plug and compression check, then clean up the flywheel and 'contacts' of the ignition module. Set the gap and check for a good spark. If you've got that, and with a new carb fitted, then white smoke will either be too much oil in the mix or too...

You may well know this already, but CA glue cures with moisture, so may be worth dampening the bore of the wheel before assembly to improve the cure

Last time I did a similar repair, on a caravan vanity unit, I laminated another piece of abs on the back using plumbers pipe solvent. Worked well and is still strong. Have also heat welded cracks on a front panel with a soldering iron and filler stick, wasn't pretty though. Tried the acetone...

If you can't drill through the nut can you drill down the nut? I'm thinking put the nut in place then drill down between nut and shaft, pop in a suitable diameter bit of rod to act like a keyway

That's an excellent job, where did you get the wheels? I remember when starting out being told not to use augers on the lathe as they would pull in to the wood too fast. Guess it may have been an old wives tale after all, or maybe less of a problem in end grain

Found it: https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/simple-segment-project-w-i-p.74105/

Iirc someone on here bought an old 12v black and decker drill and rigged it up to run from a transformer by making an adapter from wooden dowel. Might be an option

I was looking for a R/A drill a while back and saw these, nice low profile as they don't use a keyless chuck. https://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-da3010-2-450w-electric-angle-drill-240v/616xj

The lathe is usually 'accurate enough', but in case the bit follows the grain rather than where you want the hole it's safer to do the hole first either on the lathe or pillar drill. Stuffed up a few turnings learning that one. More of an issue with smaller diameter bits of course

If you want an accurately centred hole drill the hole in your blank with the pillar drill then turn the outer shape on your lathe. Turn a pair of drive cones that fit the head and tailstock to centre your work on, or a use a pin chuck if you have one. If you buy a chuck look out for one with...

I thought about landscape fabric but it melts and gives off unpleasant smoke when burned. Having said that so does my sheen flamegun! Very organic :LOL:

Seems odd to have it in both places. Are the eaves ventilated? This seems pretty cheap and should staple up well: https://www.eufabrics.com/fire-retardant-fabrics/424-upholstery-base-lining-fabric-fire-retardant.html

Did they reuse the old pan connector? If so the rubber seal may not be sealing properly (guess how I know that :rolleyes:). For what they cost I'd be off to the local Toolstation or Screwfix for a connector and some silicone spray. Is there a bath or basin on the same pipe? We have a...

Second hand sissix big shot or similar off eBay an a nested set of dies would be a cheap start, can't speak for the resin side though

There's been one on eBay for a while, but I don't think the seller really knows what it is. What sort of speed do you use? I found my lathe too fast for the rounders, but ok for the trapping plane

I remember talking to the chap who made them at a show many years back. The drive system they produced was based on a Reliant Robin gearbox teamed to a motor and a range of square chucks. Had a few some years back but found I wasn't using them. Selling 4 back then bought me a planer...

If this was all I had available I'd turn a piece of hardwood to fit the toolpost, drill a guide hole in that at centre height then chuck the ali in normal fashion. With the spindle locked you could then use a hand held drill for a reasonably accurate hole

Only a little excited? :) That's a brilliant deal. Once you've got it you'll wonder how you managed without. I'd recommend a copy of Mark Duginske's (spelling?) Bandsaw book

Second pic appears to have a side axe, barking iron and a few types of draw knife. Chains with hooks look like log lifters, or may be used with a pole in a similar way to a cant hook

Is that the top from a type of jubilee clip? What type of pin is it? Could be quicker to drill it out if you have access. If it is a roll pin can you get a thin bolt through it, put a nut on the tight end and use that to pull it out?