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Quite apart from the price, the photo shows support arrangements for the surface to be ground that are most unlikely to be rigid. Long, thin arms with small articulating joints? It's a recipe for flexibility and vibrations. And low accuracy. I would avoid it like the plague.

It only looks like about 3/4". Don't that that would be too noticeable.

I would suggest: 1: Cut off the eroded stub end that's been in the joint with the steel bracket; profile the next - say 50mm to a tight sliding fit in the bracket. 2: Mark where the leg slides through and butts up against the seat base. Drill that out half way through at the same...

My tuppence FWIW: chip-breaker problems are more often caused by twist than by hogging or sagging [apologies for the naval terminology]. Screw on the CB, and check WHERE the gaps are. If they're symmetrical side-to side, that's hogging or sagging. If towards one side, that's twist. Cutting...

Try Dieter Schmidt in Germany: https://www.fine-tools.com/make-your-own-saw.html They do plates for backsaws for €27 to €31. Thickness 0.38 to 0.51mm [28 down to 25 gauge] 1095 Spring steel, hardened and tempered to Rc48-51

Find a 'Mens' Shed' or 'Makerspace' near you. Sign up. Borrow a Nº 7 or Nº 8 plane. Use it. That's what they're for.

Tan-dyed sycamore?

I've taken a number of these split-nut screws out of old backsaws. The English ones mostly seem to be similar to 5/32" Whitworth, but with 24 tpi, instead of Whitworth's 32. US ones seem mostly to be UNC. I wonder if anyone in Sheffield - such as the Hawley Collection - has taps and dies for...

I've checked a fair number of the split-nut screws. They seem to be 5/32" x 24 tpi. Similar to 5/32" Whitworth, but with the coarser thread of a 3/16". But they seem to be fairly standard; so I guess there might have been one or two Sheffield firms specialising in sawscrews and nuts, and...

Pretty much the same here. In 1958 I was at a small, obscure 'Public School', which had a woodwork shop with NO electrical devices or supplies, except the lights. A lathe? Yes - but treadle-powered. Everything else by hand. Open 24/7, with NO( supervision. The only condition was that, if...

I agree with deema: look out a piece that is accurately quarter-sawn. Then: 1: It won't move and cup 2: You'll get the 'blaze' figuring from oak's medullary rays

My oldest is a little blue unbranded plastic-handled electrical screwdriver that I bought as my first-ever tool in 1956, for 6d [Old pennies, for you youngsters]. Much battered and bent; still works fine.

This is likely to be tricky; but – assuming [and ONLY assuming] I could get a sash cramp across the gap – I would use the 'Hot Araldite' technique. Put a heat gun onto the seat until the wood is REALLY hot - ideally close to 100ºC. Then make up a small dab of Araldite and just spot it onto the...

Slightly off-topic, but I always use these Portwest Welder's Aprons: https://www.glovesnstuff.com/welding-apron-en11611-class-2-leather-fesw10 Really thick sueded cowhide - so indestructible. Has backstraps, so doesn't "hang heavy" round your neck. £14

The sample you show certainly looks like classic fiddleback sycamore to me. Maybe best to ask some experienced luthiers? As for the cause, I report what I was told in Woodwork classes at school in 1958. But perhaps knowledge has advanced since then? This research...

I suggest it may be Sycamore or another Acer species. The figuring is called "fiddleback" and is highly prized amongst luthiers - amongst others - for precisely that purpose. You're very lucky to have got such large single pieces, all so figured. It occurs around and below the point where a...

One solution to your problem may be a new technique: VACUUM INSULATED GLAZING, or VIG. It's two sheets of - typically 4mm - glass, with a 0.3mm gap between them, pumped out to a vacuum. The two panes are kept apart by tiny 'pills' of transparent glass frit placed every inch, in a square...

You should ALWAYS do the final bevel by hand. Never let a machine wheel actually touch the feather edge; it will blue it almost instantly. Then the blade is useless until you've ground out all the blued material. I use a cheap Chinese one like your DSM, for the first bevel. Then the second...

¥ou could try a parcel courier, such as Parcel2Go. I use them when buying tools where the seller won't post. It works well about 2/3rds of the time. The rest: problems. I had a heavy chest of drawers picked up and delivered here. All fully insured. It arrived shattered: every joint broken...

To trace the leak, try filling the system with a fluorescent die [Fluorescein/Uraneine, or Rhodanine]; pressurise; wait for the pressure to drop; then, at night, search with an ultra-violet torch. It will glow brightly. Messy, but effective.