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So what is wrong with using an 8" diamond-grit flat stone? It's always worked for me, and the diamond-grit stones are not epensive nowadays.

Possibly Poplar?

Can be confused with the lever cap iron.

1: It sounds as if the front of the blade is not being adequately supported by the frog. So, when it starts to 'bite' the surface, it bends downwards under the thrust from the wood. That will cause jamming. Check the frog's alignment - both horizontally and vertically. Make sure the blade is...

I tend to use 2-part epoxy [for strength, and long set-up times]. But it's thick and viscous, so leaves a visible glue-line that yellows and darkens with age. So: 1: Warm the material beforehand. At ±80ºC, epoxy turns virtually water-like, and can be clamped [or rubbed] to produce a very...

Then look more widely . . . . .

Agreed! I've never, in 65 years, felt the need for a sharpening jig. Learn the angle; do it right. The only change would be using diamond-grit stones, instead of oilstones. Quite cheap now, last 5 times as long as oilsontes and - above all - stay flat.

Perhaps things went wrong earlier.? The key to Windsor chairs was the SINGLE PIECE elm seat. The point being that elm - famously - does not split; because it has 'crossed grain', so there is no single along-the-grain split line. • Sapele doesn't have that. Strong enough in general, but not...

"massive presses producing the chassis as a single die cast component" ??? How aboout trying to learn the vocabulary, before displaying ignorance?

I think maybe I mis-described the issue. Often, it's not a matter of complete jointing and starting with a new set of teeth; rather that of evening out "Cow & Calf" unevenness BETWEEN adjacent teeth - normally caused by previous poor sharpening practice. Then each gullet has to be filed...

Thanks dalboy; those are two useful leads. The cordless one in particular looks suitable. Just a pity it's from China . . . .

Well, at the moment I'm leaning towards trying to attach a piece of saw file to the blade stub of a sabre saw. The small ones are quite 'handy'; and you don't need to use force when sharpening or jointing. But: how to bond two pieces of heat-treated steel – where welding would destroy the...

Yes; that's what I want. But: 1: It's phenomenally expensive. 2: Idon't have air.

I restore classic English saws [hand and backsaws], from the 19th and 18th centuries. I'm looking for a power tool to re-file teeth and gullets into damaged saws. A big part of restoring is sharpening. Particularly where the saw has either been badly sharpened in the past, or has been...

This, from BSSM [British Saws & Saw Makers from 1660]: Wheatman & Smith, Russell Works, Russell Street (then Kelham Island), Sheffield, 1852 - 1968. The Russell works on Kelham Island now form the buildings for the Kelham Island Museum and the Hawley Collection of classic Sheffield saws...

". . starting to board . . Laburnum logs"?? Watch out for the dust: toxic if ingested

This may sound like a backwards step, but I use a hand impact driver; a heavy co-axial screw tool that uses rotational inertia to loosen - or tighten - bolts when hit with a hammer. My biggest is a 1/2" drive Snap-On, and I have two smaller ones - 3/8" and 1/4" - for smaller, fiddlier jobs...

If you're aiming to do forging, there's not much alternativce to a proper steel anvil. But for occasional heavy/hot work, I'd vote for a piece of rail. Mine is 350mm. of 65kg rail - so, around 20kg. Bt more importantly, it's made of 1084 rail steel: with 0.7 to 1.0% Manganese, so it's very...

As orraloon says: the trees won't stop growing. So, instead of putting the gate BETWEEN the tree runks, attach each stile to the outside front of each tree. Then, as the trees grow, it'll move forwards, but - hopefully - not change in width. If you don't want to nail or screw the...

I agree with Laburnum. Watch for the dust, when turning . . . .