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No, you can do as many a you want. You wire them in parallel, make sure they can not contact each other. The rea; secret is having as many anodes as cathodes. The current draw will go up. That's why I use old school car battery chargers.

Yes, I have.. . . . . . . . . . . . Mix with flour, applied to part, wrapped in cling film, wait.

The modern fuel will eat the seals. I have a few duel fuel Lanterns, a Colman iron and 2 stoves. Coleman agree that the 2 fuels you say will be ok.

Wrong fuel the stove will work, but the seals may emit vapour.

The box size needs to be 50% bigger than the item being cast. 25% from all extremes of the pattern. Only oil will do. I use linseed as I can get it cheep.

I do. Plywood sides, pallet off cuts for the rest. Well covered in Linseed oil, good green sands. Best I did was home cast a steel hammer.

Electrolysis. 12vdc. Ratio. 1 dessert spoon to 1 lit of water. Water was at 18deg C. Heat will speed it up.

How bad they were.

This set of snips was striped and boiled in Citric acid. Ratio 1 table spoon to 1 lt of water. The rust is gone, the pits were there before the dip in Citric. Here they have had a coat of machine wax.

I decant mine into a 25lt container, filtered through a filter. The crud settles out, then that gets disposed off. Then I had more citric acid powder as and when I want.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I have used both methods. Never have I had the acid etching the metal.

No it does not, if you do it right. Lead used to be used on car bodies. The trick is is the get the metal really clean, then a good active flux. Then gentle heat, the lead solder will flow. Not blob up. I have dome this method for years.

Have you seen them?

I use about 1 table spoon per liter of water. Then on used fluid I top up with 1 table spoon per 3 liters of water.

I leave the pits, just get the rust away. If I need to fill them I use old school car lead filler sticks and smooth off.