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If you're looking at cheap to moderately priced pillar drills, Just wait until you acquire one, as you might have to replace the chuck on it, quite likely on many's a machine. Likely alright for the lathe for a lot of stuff.

Just brought back my LN 60 1/2 from me folks. Nearly tore a hole in me pocket with the weight of it. Quite heavy if wanting to use it with one hand, I wouldn't be able to for long I don't think. I have not sold it, as it might be handy for shooting tiny stuff. Suppose it's a nice thing to have...

Are the guides mounted on the guard, or the guard mounted to a post? Hard to get an idea without properly seeing, but it appears to be the former to me. Are you saying it isn't parallel with blade when the post is raised or lowered? Can you scoot the carriage of the top wheel should it appear...

I'd not want just the one plane to do it all. Even if you did end up with "clunky" adjustments, the only ones I can think of being extra backlash, difficultly advancing cutter which David has mentioned recently on the newer Stanley's or possibly a cap iron with a bend which creeps closer to the...

@Jameshow I don't have a good photo of what I mean by a head on photo. Best I've got is a shot of the toes of these no.5 1/2's One can see plenty of meat on these, which is good insurance if buying a plane. I forgot I have a picture of what to avoid, nevermind the cracks lol, it might be a...

It's the kinda thing that I'd be looking for.... I'd need to see toe and heel head on to be convinced the sole was as hefty as the thick sides on this particular plane might suggest. Possibly unusual to come across photos of such, but never had a seller refuse. Very easy to come across some...

Andrews ones looks about the most compact, but I'd guess those timbers would need be dense enough not to be problematic sawing. Could step it up a bit with something like Kris Harbour's version, which @thetyreman made. Alternatively copying a design like the Evolution mitre stand might be worth...

This looks the best solution for space constraints to me. Tad short for one who uses western planes, when you consider the easy planing stop i.e wide strip of ply or board would need to be wide enough not to smack the plane into the wall. With a few clamps this might be worth consideration...

Looks sorta like guitar tuning machines, but with a differing ratio. I wonder if you could find something off the shelf this way, using the same terminology / keywords to find the correct one. I briefly looked at bass guitars with open gears without a possible match, Surely there's something...

If you carried on assuming this with a bad case, you will likely end up with a banana profile and thinner ends of the plane than necessary, as abrasion will always favour the edges, i.e toe and heel, and you still would likely end up with a lump around the mouth. Or a plate which you could...

I agree, if simply needing to eliminate some crud. Identifying high areas what one might wish to deal with, without taking excess off toe and heel, focusing on those areas with say a block or a small strip on the lap. Having something to check with is arguably more valuable than a flat working...

I wouldn't go mad and just do some spot work with a block, if the only thing you've got is something which is too short for the job, and may or may not be accurate even if it were sufficient length, as it's not an inspection tool. Have you not got a spirit level, I'd guess even that may be more...

If your only cleaning up some surface rust, then you might not need anything more than some sandpaper on a block. If not the case....just a word of warning if not going to cut that glass. You stand some chance of causing an error (removing excess material from toe and heel) with such a long...

Plenty of machines on the bay worth looking at. Take this one for example

Just a consideration, but it may be a good idea to have the space for your favourite clamps, or holdfasts, or for fish containers (euro containers likely have every size imaginable), or whatever boxes you might come across. Just for interest sake, 9" would allow for these clamps, not that you...

Make saw cuts like a "half blind dovetail" beforehand, and a forstner bit or even 10mm holes with regular bit if you like, should the timber be dense, although you could do a few more cuts instead. Could even use a scraper and tap it in if it were soft stuff, just dont tap your cheap (i.e...

This guy knows his onions Bradshaw joinery is also a good channel for the likes.

I bought this Soba 150mm square for a tenner at axi, it wasn't labeled as such, just went under engineers squares. By contrast I bought an old M&W square which has a bit of wear but still just about ok. Have a old protractor too, same deal, difficult from photos what's got wear. Regarding some...

You could consider a staved construction instead I found this youtube channel from a link on the aussie forum, good video about a plane maker, Here's a link to the harp maker, should you not have seen it, good watch. You'll have to click the subtitles.

I'd love to find some stainless plate or even good enough steel to make some short straight edges from. Could get pretty far without this and use timber ones if you had the plate on hand to make sure its accurate. Perhaps your suggestion is so, to get by without a flat rigid surface beneath the...