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I think it might be called Milicia excelsa 😋

Suppose it's just second nature in the land of dado stacks!:)

adjective: pertinent relevant or applicable to a particular matter. Ayethankyou !

adjective: pertinent relevant or applicable to a particular matter. Ayethankyou !

Perhaps @Stigmorgan could have posted this other picture of the iroko piece or whatever it is..... would be instantly identifiable as so if he had a before shot.

I was thinking they might be too soft, as it's easier than a roofing nail to cut with a pliers, although admittedly I only ever needed to cut damp thin rods which stick to the work, not tried say a 2.5 or 3.2 rod to compare to a soft steel galvanised nail. I've seen those rods used for hinges...

Chris suggests in the video somewhere about 20 degrees, honed the same cutting angle as the work, and a softened heel to avoid scoring the work, and does suggest suggest an inside bevel of about 5 or 10 degrees, honed whilst close to the chest for rigidity with the nice hones from Norton...

I'd say some welding rod might do the trick, although I've never tried. The most difficult part using any sorta rod, is getting a mushroom/wider profile on one side as to sit into a countersink. I have done this with a machine badge, using soft galvanized nails, perhaps for roof slates. (ones...

I don't recall much use of a mallet whilst watching Chris Pye's videos, it was seemingly quite a bit more delicate than say Follansbee's work for example. I'll bet if you have a re-read of his book, you might have the answer. It could be amongst mention of "flat gouges" somewhere, or perhaps...

Here's the IBC pinnacle double iron Not sure which I'd prefer, as I hate little screws which get loose,lost, and are likely not too common to find. Having lost a little screw recently for my vernier calipers, really annoying, and no old laptop I had nor anything else fitted so had to pien a...

Never thought about simply piening the tabs, Cosman's IBC (a thicker iron than most IIRC) blades uses those tabs, but tapped instead. Never really looked at those, but your comment made me question which method I'd prefer haha

Looks cheaper than getting a vintage yoke to me. Seems you could buy a steel one if you wanted either, that could be welded. This recent thread might be of interest, which I guess you've seen already...

Why can't you the TS? You could do a number of consecutive shallow cuts, but leaving the edge, or perhaps just inside of it for support so you could plane off the strip afterwards I do wonder how one would rig up the infeed and outfeed, that is the hurdle IMO. Not something I would do, as I...

Unusual cracking, case hardening? It appears like iroko to me, but I'm not familiar enough with turning the stuff to be able to tell, be easy to tell with facegrain planed up if it was. I'm only judging from the circular portion with the large crack. Not seen any case hardening in any iroko...

Looks like red meranti to me.

I would'a thought they might have used an equally sized drill and use some follower tool on the mill?

If it's the case of buying a whole length to obtain the required length, then I can't see why not, as a small angle grinder is near a necessity. One could make a jig to hold the tool, as it's got regular thread on both sides on all. Some tape with trial and error, edit a drill bit looks like...

"Cold house blues makes everything slippy" 😉

Troublesome bandsaws are nothing unheard of, plenty of new machines by all brands which I see rocking about. It could be lots worse, like the bore of the wheels being damaged or out of round, or other bad casting issues regarding the wheels. I don't have the equipment to fix those important...

It seems you may be referring to my machine. Aye, you have spotted the Achilles heel in regards to design on pretty much every welded saw out there. I can only guess a flange or face mounted motor is smoother, that is... if this seemingly ubiquitous methodology of construction regarding machine...